Pizza and pasta doesn't come much smarter than at Cafe Bedda offshoot Cantina Centrale, which cuts a dash with polished concrete floors, fire engine-red detailing and smart table accessories. Italian brio informs the family-friendly experience, which kicks off with a small list of assaggi (starters) including fat green Sicilian olives, herby baked ricotta in vibrant house-made sugo, and grilled scallops with pesto butter and toasted breadcrumbs. Wood-fired pizza is the real Neapolitan deal - a punchy southern Italian version with anchovies, capers, black olives and parmigiano has a nicely crisp base and extravagantly puffy crust. Pastas and mains back up the pizza-centric menu - things like house-made tagliolini with braised calamari and peas and veal scaloppine served involtini style, rolled around parmesan, asiago cheese and ham and served in a puddle of polenta. Dolce? Nutella calzone is sweet, crisp and alluring, and there's gelati, too.