The frenetic open kitchen here may be alive with wok tossing and noodle throwing, but the modern dining room is a spacious, civilised spot with views of the river and square. One of the founding restaurants of Federation Square, with a loyal following, it makes a feature of dishes from China's north and west. House-made noodles and breads are a highlight, whether crisp fried pancakes or pillowy steamed buns ideal for mopping up the numbing Sichuan pepper sauce accompanying a plate of crisp king prawns. Specialities include a la carte yum cha at lunch: dumplings tend to be fried, the pastry chewier, the spices more robust than the more familiar Cantonese. There are rich pickings for vegetarians, such as a dish of gently steamed white and black fungi, lotus seeds, enoki and shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots and tofu with a subtle, ginger-rich sauce. Tofu is a key ingredient in many dishes. Presentation can become rustic on occasion, but lack of refinement doesn't compromise flavour.