Surrounded by cutting-edge boutiques on a moneyed part of High Street, Barca sashays with the old-fashioned style of mirrors, vintage wine posters and dark wooden detailing. It's comfortable in its skin, extending to a surprisingly accomplished Med-leaning menu that has defied chef changes over recent years to maintain the illusion of continuity. Signature dishes such as slow-cooked lamb help the cause, with zesty chimichurri and pomegranate seeds. Seared scallops and golden fried nuggets of pureed cauliflower studded with jamon has its rustic heart dressed up for the restaurant crowd; gnocchi, just a little on the heavy side, ably compensate with a stocky sauce of spinach, peas, jamon Serrano and a lick of truffle oil. You'll similarly forgive the modern paella its absence of Valencian crust thanks to the quality of the seafood. a Moreton Bay bug tail, calamari tentacles, prawns and clams with chorizo. To finish, white chocolate mousse with passionfruit coulis and honeycomb is an airy dollop of heaven.