For the third time in as many years, the Albert Park has been reinvented. It still serves good fish, but the brief is now good-value Mediterranean/Middle Eastern, which means more meats, vegetables and grains, exemplified by flank steak cooked over wood and served with an interesting tumble of lentils, chickpeas, freekeh, farro and wild rice. You might make a meal or a snack of flatbread topped with hot peppers, pretty chive flowers and ouzo-soaked prawns, or be offered a tray of the day's fish for inspection, which will then be cooked beautifully and served simply, with lemon and oil. You don't need the side of chips to remind you it's a pub dining room; its proximity to the main bar means noise inevitably drifts across. Panna cotta made with desert limes and served with poached quince may initially surprise with its tartness, then beguile with its textures. The tides of change have ebbed and flowed here but it's still smooth sailing.