The hottest little pocket in Sydney hospitality has another reason to visit from this week, with the redesigned and rebooted Wild Rover opening on Friday as The Rover.

Located near Surry Hills' Pellegrino 2000, Nomad and the soon-to-open Ace Hotel, The Rover has reformed its formerly wild ways, offering a grown-up and sophisticated version of itself.

With more of a New York bar pitch, we caught a glimpse of its New England-inspired, seafood-heavy menu. It looks promising, with curried fish finger rolls, scallop with horseradish cream, cucumber and dill oil, and hot smoked sardines with cultured butter.

Part of the Liquid & Larder group (Bistecca, The Gidley), executive chef Pip Pratt will also deep-fry Creole-spiced oysters.

"Taking cues from the chic cocktail bars in New York City, we've crafted the new menu of indulgences to enjoy pre-dinner or dishes that tempt you to settle in for the night, with or without a drop from the epic drinks list," Pratt says.

Sommelier Kyle Poole, who previously worked at Woodcut and Rockpool Bar & Grill, has crafted a wine list with "50 punchy and dynamic drops from some of the best organic and biodynamic wineries".

Open Tue-Thu (from 4pm), Fri-Sat (from noon).

75 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, liquidandlarder.com.au