New Restaurant of the Year

The most exciting opening in the past 12 months, this restaurant sets the eating agenda and starts conversations. Represents everything that's fresh, hot and interesting about dining.

Saint Peter, NSW

A drawn and quartered bass grouper has rarely looked this beautiful. But if you follow chef Josh Niland on Instagram, you already knew that. Here, gill-to-tail cooking is elevated in such a way that a local tuna might be dry-aging in the cool room while a red gurnard has been carefully butchered, each part treated with as much care as the next, and heart and swim bladder set next to spine, fins, fillet and tail. All of this translates to a menu that changes daily, in a tiny restaurant hidden in plain sight on Paddington's high street. This isn't just next-level fish cookery. It's next-level cookery full stop.