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Pioneering Sydney fine-dining restaurant Tetsuya's to close after 22 years

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Tetsuya's minimalist dining room looks onto a Japanese garden.
Tetsuya's minimalist dining room looks onto a Japanese garden.Christopher Pearce

Two-hatted Sydney fine-dining restaurant Tetsuya's will close next year, ending a 22-year run at its Kent Street home in the CBD.

The Tetsuya's story actually began even earlier, in 1989, when a young Japanese chef, Tetsuya Wakuda, opened his eponymous restaurant in Rozelle, relocating to the city in November 2000.

Chef Tetsuya Wakuda at his Kent Street restaurant.
Chef Tetsuya Wakuda at his Kent Street restaurant.Peter Braig
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Food critic Leo Schofield praised Wakuda's skilful cooking when the venue opened in Rozelle, describing it "as good tasting as you'll find in any of the city's best BYOs, with the exception of Claude's".

"Tetsuya Wakuda fuses refined Japanese and classic French cuisines in this small but impeccably run and maintained Rozelle restaurant," he wrote at the time in The Sydney Morning Herald.

As the restaurant grew in stature and collected a trophy cabinet of awards, Tetsuya's became internationally recognised as one of Australia's new breed of food temples.

Tetsuya's signature confit ocean trout dish sent shockwaves through Sydney's food set when it debuted.
Tetsuya's signature confit ocean trout dish sent shockwaves through Sydney's food set when it debuted.Christopher Pearce

It also propelled Wakuda as a global culinary figure. He opened a short-lived restaurant in London, before a more successful and lasting push into Singapore with Waku Ghin.

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In recent times he has opened the spin-off Wakuda eatery, both in Singapore and, in recent months, Las Vegas.

Tetsuya's announced today it will serve its final confit of ocean trout at its Kent Street dining room in August 2023 due to the building "becoming a redevelopment site".

Tetsuya Wakuda at his restaurant's original Rozelle location in 1989.
Tetsuya Wakuda at his restaurant's original Rozelle location in 1989.The Sydney Morning Herald

It also announced it was on the lookout for a new Sydney home, a search its team has been quietly undertaking for some time.

The Kent Street building it calls home sold in 2018.

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Wakuda, who was reported as a part-owner of the site, and other private joint owners, reaped $53 million from the sale.

There was some speculation Tetsuya's would return to the location after its redevelopment, but in recent times the chef and his team have been linked with other properties in Sydney.

Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/pioneering-sydney-finedining-restaurant-tetsuyas-set-to-close-after-22-years-20220902-h2643k.html