Collingwood newcomer Flint, opening October 18, taps into a decade-long love affair of chef Nicki Morrison with smoke, fire and charcoal. The obsession saw her start barbecue catering business Sticks and Bones following high-end chef jobs but, after several years, her creative impulses won out.

"I want to do beautiful, creative food … that's way more refined and cool," she says. "If I never see another brisket in my life, it'll be too soon."

At her debut restaurant as chef-owner, Morrison and sous chef Yukio Endo (ex San Telmo) are threading smoke through everything from cocktails to the milk bread that's a drum roll to a troupe of small plates, including smoked carrots with labne.

Fermentation is another focus. Beets that are charred in the fire are fermented to accompany venison tartare, served with nori crackers. Ox-tongue skewers, brushed with a fermented capsicum glaze, get pep from a kohlrabi pickle.

There's even fermented strawberry – plus smoked cream cheese and shiso – in a doughnut designed to be shared between two for dessert.

Larger plates include duck breast with leeks from the fire, and cured-then-torched mackerel with sabayon.

Leasing the split-level space occupied by Japanese restaurant Peko-Peko was a no-brainer for Morrison, who loves the upper-level private dining room that's away from the action but boasts an archway overlooking the kitchen.

The 48-seat restaurant is dark ("so dark we almost can't see what we're cooking"), lifted by olive green upholstery and a soundtrack of old soul.

Open Tue-Sat from 4pm for snacks, 5.30pm-9.30pm for dinner

199 Smith Street, Fitzroy, flintsmith.com.au