Japanese architect Kengo Kuma's circular landmark is taking shape on the site where a generation of Sydneysiders partied at the Entertainment Centre.

But it'll be an Australian-Chinese food giant that rocks the completed building.

Chinatown icon Golden Century will open a 180-seat restaurant mid-2019 at the building, The Exchange at Darling Square.

A circular building on a square will no doubt get the feng shui experts involved, but Good Food hears it won't carry the famed Golden Century shingle.

Billy Wong, the son of Golden Century owners Eric and Linda Wong, will front a new concept for the group.

He says the yet-to-be named restaurant will be primarily Cantonese, but draw on "elements" of other Chinese regions and hit a younger demographic with a contemporary approach.

Wong grew up at Golden Century, which his parents relocated from Hong Kong to operate.

"It's where I did my homework at one of the back tables or in a little room … the restaurant will have its 30th anniversary next year," he says.

A magnet for Sydney chefs, Golden Century is also a favourite of global superstars such as chef Ferran Adria, a regular there when he's in Australia.

Wong, who worked in financial services before joining the family business several years ago, says the new restaurant will be a family affair.

"My brother Alex, who works in Hong Kong as a designer, will do the interior," he says.