Taking up where Entrecote left off in Melbourne's Alfred Place, Garcon Paris Steakhouse taps into French bistro tradition with a menu revolving around champagne, oysters and steak.

Chef Matt Franklin (ex-Le Parisien in Geelong), who spent two years at Le Parisien in Geelong, heads the kitchen, delivering bistro classics such as snails in garlicky herb butter, steak tartare, pissaladiere (Nicoise-style pizza) topped with onion, olives and anchovies, and goat's cheese souffle.

But the signature dish is steak frites ($40), the pasture-fed beef served with Cafe de Paris butter, skinny fries and a salad of soft leaves and radish.

Owners Joseph Alesci and Don Ravida have drawn inspiration for the vibe from '80s Paris, adding graphic primary-coloured signage to chalky walls, and kitting out the split-level space with mirrors, dark timber bistro chairs, and a mixture of marble tables and others set with paper over linen.

A coffee window open to Alfred Place serves pastries and bircher muesli from 7am, with baguettes to grab and go at lunchtime. During happy hour, (Monday to Saturday, 4pm-6pm) shucked-to-order oysters are $2.50 each and the garcon royale cheeseburger with frites is $12.

Open Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, Mon-Sat 6pm-late.

Garcon Paris Steakhouse, 6 Alfred Place, Melbourne, 03 9654 8184, garconparissteakhouse.com.au