Umtali Beach House Bridport: Is this Tasmania’s best shack?

Nestled just metres away from a stunning northern Tasmania estuary, the bird-life is ubiquitous and the fishing is even better. REVIEW + SPECIAL OFFER >>

Umtali Beach House, nestled at the mouth of the Little Forester River, at Bridport, is like something from a Robert Drewe novel, or the classic 1976 Australian film Storm Boy.

There is something sepia-toned about it, and I mean that in the best possible way.

You start your trip by driving down an impossibly long dirt driveway, past paddocks full of handsome-looking sheep, before a bend in the road reveals petite Umtali, nestled among a clump of trees.

Schoolchildren and sportspeople are all taught the aphorism, ‘keep it simple stupid’, at various points, and that’s what Umtali’s owner’s Richard and Mary Ramsay have done.

Three bedrooms, a wooden veranda, and a large, open-plan living room/kitchen, and that’s all there really is to Umtali.

Umtali Beach House, which sits on the banks of the Little Forester River, near Bridport. Picture: Nic Betts Media

But you can afford to cook up a simple dish when the ingredients are so perfect.

The living room’s panoramic window looks directly out to the Little Forester estuary just metres away, mudflats glistening in the wan sun as oystercatchers ply their trade.

Richard was right – the birdwatching is fantastic. Shame I am a troglodyte who doesn’t know his yellow honeyeaters from his yellow wattlebirds.

But I can confirm they are all there, flitting away in the scrub just off the wooden veranda, wading through the estuary’s shallows, blotting out the fading sun at evening, so thickly do they fly together.

Umtali Beach House, which sits on the banks of the Little Forester River, near Bridport. Picture: Nic Betts Media

Bridport itself is lovely – some people deride the NIMBYism of places like it (Swansea, Orford et cetera), but you can see instantly why locals want to protect the rustic charm of these towns.

We take an aimless stroll down the main drag, popping our heads into this shop and that, before we find ourselves taking in the shadow of Bridport Lighthouse, taking in the view at the mouth of Trent Water as the wind whips at our hair – well, her hair, at least, mine having taken a premature, unfortunate leave of absence.

Umtali Beach House, which sits on the banks of the Little Forester River, near Bridport. Picture: Nic Betts Media

Afterwards, we find ourselves in Bridport Cafe for a spot of lunch.

Now, I should reveal my cards now, I worked as a barista in university – I am a bit of a coffee snob.

But the coffee in this homely, unpretentious cafe was superb. Even better was the pea and ham soup, chock full of thick shreds of smoky Scottsdale ham. On a cold winter’s day, it was a tonic for the soul.

I must confess we were quite lazy on our first day. I bought a handful of newspapers and luxuriated in reading them cover to cover with the heat pump blasting over me. We popped a bottle of sparkling wine and made a cheeseboard.

But if you can’t be lazy at a place like Umtali, well, you are going to lead a harried life.

We were more active on the second day. We started with a takeaway coffee at charming little bakery Sugar ‘N’ Spice, which was just as good as Bridport Cafe’s.

Umtali Beach House, which sits on the banks of the Little Forester River, near Bridport. Picture: Nic Betts Media

We wet our fishing lines in Trent Water – the local IGAs sell bait – but upon discovering the tides were against us, ambled through the Bridport Wildflower Reserve instead.

It was a lovely way to spend 90 minutes – the path is wide and easy, and while there weren’t many wildflowers out, owing to the season, there were plenty of handsome grass trees and curious birds.

We finished with a beer at the Bridport Bay Inn – rustic, like everything else in town – while we waited for a feed of flathead and chips from Bridport Takeaway.

Like everything else in town, it was superlative. You can always tell the quality of fish and chips from how greasy the batter is, and this batter was dry and crisp.

My evening fishing trip in Little Forester was far more successful.

For recreational fishers, fishing is, of course, not really about the fish. It’s about your inner-life.

As I watched the sun set over the tree line, kept company by only the birds swooping against a background of orange and mauve and the occasional small whiting I landed, it was easy to feel that ones troubles, whatever they may be, are trifling.

Umtali Beach House, which sits on the banks of the Little Forester River, near Bridport. Picture: Nic Betts Media

My reverie was snapped by my Kmart rod suddenly doubling in half and the drag whirring like a distressed R2D2.

I am certain I am about to land the biggest flathead of my life, but after a two-minute fight, the creature from the deep spits the hook. I am dejected but such is life.

My only disappointment from my time at Umtali is that the wind and the chill militates against us taking the kayaks up the Little Forester for an exploration. Maybe next time.

Robert Drewe, in The Bodysurfers, wrote that “when Australians run away they always run to the coast”.

If you need to run, for whatever reason, Umtali is a place well worth running to.

MAKE A NOTE

GETTING THERE

Bridport is an hour north of Launceston. Take the East Tamar Hwy, on to Dalrymple Rd then left at the T-intersection on to Bridport Rd.

STAYING THERE

Umtali Beach House is available in one, two or three-bedroom configurations. A two-night stay for two adults is $470. www.umtalibeachhouse.com.

DINING THERE

Umtali Beach House has its own spacious, well-equipped kitchen. If you’re feeling lazy, grab lunch at Bridport Cafe, Bridport Takeaway or Sugar ‘N’ Spice Bakery. The Bridport Bunker and Bay Inn are both respected dinner hot spots. Recently opened Bridport Distilling Co serves tapas-style meals for dinner Friday – Sunday.

PERFECT FOR

Romantic weekends away, avid fishermen, family trips, golfing holidays.

SPECIAL OFFER

Mercury readers can take advantage of a special offer of three nights for the price of two. Please go to www.umtalibeachhouse.com ; book a 2night stay, and put in your notes “MERCURY- free extra night” and we’ll add a free third night, on to your two-night stay.

The author was a guest of Umtali Beach House.