TasWeekend: New light dawning on lovely Lonnie

The face of Launceston is changing as the city, like Hobart, races to cater for growing tourist numbers.

Overlooking Cataract Gorge. Picture: SUPPLIED

LOOKING up the Tamar River towards Cataract Gorge is one of the most captivating vistas in Tasmania’s northern capital.

But the view was wasted on four forlorn-looking wheat silos at the industrial end of town, so developer Errol Stewart decided to do something about it.

Billed the tallest building in Launceston, the $28 million Peppers Silo Hotel opened in grand style in June. It took two years to convert the disused silos into a nine-storey, 108-room hotel — 52 inside the vast concrete silos and 56 in a new north-facing tower at the rear.

PARTY TIME AS $27 MILLION HOTEL OPENS ITS DOORS

Mr Stewart is also responsible for the $30 million Seaport precinct just across the river and the ongoing transformation of a historical eyesore — the C.H. Smith building in Charles St — into offices, a cafe and carpark.

The Pepper Silos Hotel in Launceston opened on June 1. Picture: SUPPLIED

We arrive at the hotel late on a Friday afternoon. Archie, resident black labrador, is greeting guests. Checking into our deluxe gorge-view room on the fifth floor, I am struck by the industrial chic interior. Rough to touch, the silo concrete is left exposed on one curvaceous wall that continues into a voluminous bathroom.

The cabinetry is crafted from reclaimed timber from workshops that once stood nearby. Charcoal carpet contrasts with crisp white linen on the kingsize bed and an olive green chaise by the single square window provides the perfect perch for a leisurely read.

The interior of the Gorge River Room. Picture: SUPPLIED

Meeting people for dinner in the CBD, we stroll across the new North Esk pedestrian bridge between the silos and Seaport. Along the boardwalk, we pass an al fresco yoga class in front of the flood wall. On our return hours later, we encounter a rowdy but good-natured crowd of river cruise revellers.

From bed, I watch rowing crews glide past at sunrise. Joggers, cyclists and walkers use the waterside track, spurring us out of bed and down for a buffet breakfast. Our morning walk is at Cataract Gorge. A posse of peacocks gathers by the cafe counter as we order mid-route coffee. I lure my acrophobic other half onto the chairlift. He keeps a vice-like grip on the centre bar as we dangle over the tree tops.

Cataract Gorge and Kings Bridge.

I while away the afternoon at a Tasmanian terroir masterclass at Josef Chromy vineyard as part of the annual Effervescence sparkling wine festival. Moderated by international wine expert Tyson Stelzer, it’s an enlightening 80-minute journey through 16 of Tasmania’s finest drops. On the winery’s lawns, hundreds more people gather under sunny skies to meet producers and taste their wares.

We start with vintage drops including a 2013 Josef Chromy vintage brut disgorged eight days ago, making it fresh and tight. Most of the bubbles we enjoy are from northern Tasmania, crafted from grapes grown in basalt soil whipped by seaspray from Bass Strait. The ultimate is the House of Arras Ed Carr late disgorged 2004, which Stelzer describes as “one of the greatest Australian sparkling wines that’s ever been made”.

Vines cover the hills at Josef Chromy Vineyard.

MAKE A NOTE Getting there: Travel on Bathurst St into Launceston and through to the East Tamar Highway. Turn left into Lindsay St after crossing the North Esk River bridge at Invermay. The hotel is at 89-91 Lindsay St. Staying there: Prices for a Friday and Saturday night stay in a Tamar River room start at $511, rising to $646 for the Gorge River Deluxe room. For the latest rates, visit the www.peppers.com.au/silo/ website. What to do: Visit Cataract Gorge and ride the chairlift. Adults $13 one-way or $16 return, concessions available. www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Mona Foma, Mona’s summer arts and music fest, has moved from Hobart to Launceston. Headlined by Neneh Cherry and Courtney Barnett, it’s on January 13-20. www.mofo.net.au Festivale, an annual wine, food and music extravaganza held in Launceston’s City Park, runs from February 1-3. www.festivale

The day ends with dinner at Grain of the Silos at our hotel, a paddock-to-plate eatery set up by chef and food director Massimo Mele. My partner and I share a charcuterie plate. I move on to an eye fillet, medium rare, on a pillow of mash with wilted greens and sweet roasted shallots. My partner has confit ocean trout with a pea and mint ragu and fennel puree. I finish with a Frangelico affogato with sourdough ice-cream as light fades over the river, tickling the clouds pink.

We reflect on the changing face of Launceston, which, like Hobart, is racing to cater for growing tourist numbers. Josef Chromy is among several developers with hotel plans in train. After weaving his magic on a former Launceston General Hospital building, now the Mantra Charles Hotel, and the Penny Royal site, he is set to turn the corner of Paterson and Margaret streets into the 4.5-star Gorge Hotel. In Cimitiere St, plans are progressing for the 86-room Hotel Verge development. As Launceston prepares to host Mofo in January and Festivale just weeks later, it has the feel of a city on the move.

The writer and her partner were guests of Peppers Silo Hotel