Peony Pavilion is a tasty melting pot of cultures and cuisines
A new North Hobart Chinese restaurant is serving up a delicious range of good value Shanghai-style food as well as a few dishes with a Russian twist, says TasWeekend food writer Alix Davis
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Peony Pavilion
369 Elizabeth St,
North Hobart
Opening hours: Monday-Wednesday, 5pm-midnight; Thursday-Sunday, noon-midnight
On the menu
Peony dumplings, $12; Huangpu calamari, $16; Ancient borscht, $12; Jade stir-fry, $14; Black pepper beef, $22; Peony fish, $23; lamb skewers, $14; osmanthus cake, $10.
Today, Shanghai is a city of more than 26 million people and a global financial hub, but in the years between the world wars it was a safe haven for Russians who had escaped the revolution in their own country. By the mid-1930s, there were Russian schools, newspapers and radio stations as well as a number of sporting and cultural clubs. And, of course, there was Russian food.
Borscht, a warming beef and vegetable soup, became hugely popular in the city and, says Bin Wang, the owner of recently opened Peony Pavilion in North Hobart, the city became known for its Shanghai-style Russian soup, with more than 60 varieties on offer. All of this explains why there is Ancient Borscht on the menu in this Chinese restaurant specialising in Shanghai-style food. Of course, I can’t resist ordering it and am rewarded with a beautifully presented container of steaming soup. It doesn’t contain the traditional beetroot I am expecting, but it’s rich and flavourful and a fascinating insight into the culture and history of this city.
And the borscht isn’t the only item on the menu that sets Peony Pavilion apart from a standard Chinese restaurant. While Wang is originally from Beijing and moved to Hobart four years ago, he has also lived in Shanghai and his chef hails from there. This connection is what prompted them to open a restaurant focusing on the city’s food – of the 10 cuisines of China, the food of Shanghai (also known as Hu cuisine) is the youngest, at 400 years old.
One of Wang’s favourite Shanghai dishes is Huangpu calamari. “I miss this food very much,” he says. “I love that style of calamari and lucky me, my chef is from Shanghai and that dish is his home cooking. I think it’s a new way of doing calamari for Tasmania.” Named for the city’s central district, local calamari is braised in soy sauce and cooked whole before being sliced and served. The calamari is tender and the flavours – soy, sugar and rice wine – are indicative of the local cuisine, which often features seafood.
Savoury dishes with a sweet touch are common in Shanghai cuisine and the Peony fish ($23) is a typical example – generous chunks of ling are coated in a crunchy batter then coated in a sweet and sour sauce that’s light and tangy.
Tender chunks of beef are stir-fried with fresh capsicum and asparagus and a black pepper sauce in another main ($22), while fennel and asparagus are tossed together in a light oyster sauce ($14) for a vegie side dish.
The newly renovated space has a well-stocked bar – with a cocktail list to match – and Chinese timber screens divide the room into more intimate spaces. We scored a table in the front bay window – slightly secluded and perfect for these socially distanced times.
Service was friendly and efficient and there was a Friday night buzz in the air, although North Hobart is still quiet. If you’re feeling a little tentative about eating out, this well-spaced dining room may soothe your fears and fill your stomach.
The cumin-spike lamb skewers ($14 for 3) are another dish that reminds Wang of home. While these tender skewers are popular in Beijing, where they are typically enjoyed on the street with a cold beer in hand, they originated in Xinjiang in the country’s northwest. In this region, most of the population are Uighur and Muslim – and much of their cuisine gives more than a passing nod to flavours of the Middle East. Here they are tender and moreish and a contrast to the sweeter, Shanghai-style dishes.
For dessert, I’m intrigued by the osmanthus cake ($10) and Wang tells me that the osmanthus flower is common in Shanghai and often used to flavour wines and desserts. It is celebrated in a festival in August that brings families together. It’s a piece of steamed, white cake with a slightly spongy texture, served with a fragrant syrup and, a little bizarrely, two pink marshmallows. Which I’m more than happy to eat, but this traditional sweet certainly didn’t need them.
Chunky banana fritters are hot, crispy and delicious – but ask them to hold the choc-mint sauce, it’s not necessary.
If you’re looking for a Chinese meal that offers good value and something a little different, take a trip to Shanghai via the Peony Pavilion.
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