New Huon eatery is worth sojourn south
This new venue is a wonderful addition to the Huon Valley dining scene and we’re planning to set our sails and make a southerly course to this popular spot again soon, writes Alix Davis
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IN 1791, the French government commissioned explorer Bruni d’Entrecasteaux and his second in command, Huon de Kermadec, to search for a lost captain, Jean-Francois La Perouse. Last seen on March 10 off the coast of Botany Bay in NSW, La Perouse was never found, but in his memory, we have the recently opened Lost Captain restaurant and taphouse in Huonville. I’m sad that La Perouse was lost at sea, but thrilled at the new venue that has arrived in the south.
It’s a cold and wet midweek evening when we tumble through the doors, ready for a warming meal. The dining room is buzzing, with one corner lined with a squishy banquette, a separate area houses four high-sided booths and a couple of customers are enjoying a drink at the bar. Which, my husband is thrilled to see, boasts 15 beers and ciders on tap.
A quick glance over the menu throws up a few items that sound familiar, and after a chat with general manager Paul Wensor, my suspicions are confirmed – some of the crew from the much-loved New Sydney are in the kitchen and on the floor, and some of the Hobart institution’s most popular dishes have also made it on to the Lost Captain’s menu.
We skip the pigs’ ear starters but enjoy crispy-tender fried chicken with purple kimchi that has just a hint of heat. My husband is enjoying his draft Albert lager so much that he doesn’t even notice the chilli. Meaty mushrooms from Cygnet are wrapped in delicate rice paper and served as fat rolls with a ginger dipping sauce.
Our final starter (three for $40 or $15 each) involves a bit of tableside theatre as our waiter approaches with a kitchen blowtorch and, after moving phones and glasses out of range, lightly scorches paper-thin slices of Robbins Island wagyu. Also getting the torched treatment are slices of thickly cut sourdough topped with beef dripping, which melts instantly once heat is applied. The beef is tender and full of flavour (that rendered fat!) – simple elements with a bit of drama added equals a stylish start.
Dinner isn’t the only option at Lost Captain, which boasts plenty of outdoor seating and a gorgeous lawn overlooking the languid waters of the Huon River. Lunch is available every day, and on weekends, there’s a pretty impressive breakfast line-up.
To go with your jugs of breakfast cocktails (serves four), such as a Tas pepperberry margarita ($60) and an HV Bellini ($58) made with a Tasmanian sparkling, there are all the brunch classics as well as a couple of chichi options, such as a crayfish melt ($30) and a Huon Valley feast ($30). I might be saying “yes” to The Funghi ($23), a trio of Cygnet mushrooms with miso and furikake, on a Sunday morning soon.
But back to the meal at hand. I stayed inside my comfort zone and ordered the Pelverata crispy lamb with chevre, olives and tomatoes ($34) – a dish I loved at the New Sydney and am very glad I ordered here too. A mound of slow-cooked lamb has been crisped and piled on top of roast sweet potatoes. The chevre and olives provide a salty punch and the cherry tomatoes add a burst of sweetness.
My husband bookmarks the parmi ($30) for his next visit and is thrilled by the Lucaston beef short rib ($40). I love that so many items on the menu are literally within a stone’s throw of the kitchen and, once again, feel fortunate to be living among such bounty. The generously portioned rib is fall-off-the-bone tender and comes with charred broccolini that’s still got some bite to it and duck-fat roasted potatoes that are almost too good to share.
I am nothing if not professional and managed to find room for dessert – a towering bombe Alaska ($15) that looks like it could feed four. Turns out it fed the two of us perfectly – beautifully torched meringue covered ice-cream with real cherries atop a rich brownie base. Definitely worth making room for. The apple fries with salted caramel ice cream will have to wait for another time.
We will be setting our sails and making a southerly course to Lost Captain again soon – it’s a wonderful addition to the Huon Valley dining scene.
LOST CAPTAIN
2-4 Short St, Huonville
Opening hours: Mon-Fri, noon-late, Sat, 8.30am-late, Sun, 8.30am-6pm
On the menu
Scorched wagyu, $15; mushroom rice paper roll, $15; fried chicken, $15; Lucaston beef short rib, $40; Pelverata crispy lamb, $34; bombe Alaska, $15
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