Grain of the Silos worth stepping over the line for

A Tassie hotel’s recently appointed head chef, formerly of Melbourne’s highly regarded Attica restaurant, has added a new menu well worth taking the trip up the Midland Highway to sample >>

Grain of the Silos which was named one of Tasmania's top-10 restaurants in 2019. Picture: Adam Gibson

Confession time. Last week, my husband and I crossed a line. That’s right, we crossed the 42nd parallel south that, for nine turbulent years between 1804 and 1813, split Tasmania into two separately governed regions – Cornwall and Buckingham.

We ignored the old rivalries and headed up the Midland Highway, bound for Launceston and dinner at Grain of the Silos. It was a line worth crossing.

Set within the Peppers Silo hotel, which opened just over three years ago, Grain prides itself on the close relationships it holds with local producers; the menu lists 25 Tasmanian suppliers and producers who contribute to the restaurant’s offering. Head chef Mika Chae has recently relocated to Launceston and joined the team after a stint at Melbourne’s highly regarded Attica and a new menu is up and running.

Mika Chae, the recently appointed head chef, at Launceston’s Grain of the Silos restaurant. Picture: Rob Burnett

We are led to our table by the window, which has a sweeping view of the river where a lone quad scull is completing a late afternoon training session.

Service is friendly and efficient and we’re soon set up with drinks (from a predominantly Tasmanian list) while we make our selections.

Asparagus’s all-too-short season is happening, so we can’t resist an entree of tender white asparagus ($22) that has been cooked, then compressed and topped with koji (fermented ground rice) and finger lime caviar. It’s served with a cod roe cream and is a refreshing start to the meal.

Grain of the Silos’ zucchini flowers stuffed with house-made ricotta. Picture: Karis Bissett

Our second entree is zucchini flowers stuffed with house-made ricotta ($22) then dipped in tempura batter and lightly fried. The creamy ricotta is flecked with fresh sage and the baby zucchini are crisp and tender.

I can’t resist a third entree of chubby grilled flatbread, thinly sliced ham and crunchy pickles served with a mound of goats curd ($22). It’s a sophisticated take on a ploughman’s lunch and if I was met by this every time I came in from the fields, ahem, my vegie garden, I’m sure I’d be a lot more productive.

The soaring ceiling and full-height windows of the dining room feel generous, but close attention to finishes such as a carpeted floor and timber-lined walls means although it’s buzzing on this Friday night, quiet conversation is still comfortable.

The open kitchen also adds to the energetic vibe as we can see the chefs cooking and plating each meal.

Grain of the Silos’ lamb rump, which is sourced from Flinders Island and served on a bed of parsley pesto. Picture: Karis Bissett

My husband has ordered the lamb rump ($42) for his main and we only remember after we’ve finished our entrees to request it cooked medium, rather than medium-rare. That’s not a problem and it arrives sliced and perfectly cooked on a bed of parsley pesto and generously drizzled with a herb-laden chimichurri. The lamb is from Flinders Island and is truly melt-in-the-mouth. The red wine jus is the perfect foil for the crispy garlic rosemary potatoes ($12) we’ve ordered as a side.

My squid ink cavatelli with calamari ($32) is equally delicious and chef Chae tells me the cavatelli is made with the house-made ricotta. It’s wonderfully dense and firm, with ridges that collect the chilli and garlic butter sauce. The calamari comes from southern Tasmania and is beautifully tender.

“It’s been even better than I expected,” says Chae of his move south and the produce he has access to in Tasmania. “Even something as simple as eggs makes a hollandaise unlike any other.”

Grain of the Silos’ Elderflower Custard which is complemented by semolina biscuit and fresh berries. Picture: Karis Bissett

We feel fortunate to be the recipients of talent matched with ingredients to create meals that exceed expectations. The relationships fostered by food director Massimo Mele over the past three years have more than paid off.

A dessert special is too tempting for my husband and he orders the elderflower custard ($14) with semolina biscuit and the first of the strawberries from Littlewood Farm in the Coal Valley with alacrity. The creamy, elderflower-scented custard is a sweet textural contrast with the crisp semolina cracker. I order the leatherwood honey cake ($14), which is a delicate sponge cake in a pool of spiced syrup and topped with a fragrant ginger cream. It’s full of flavour and a lovely light finish to the meal.

Grain of the Silos’ smart and stylish interior. Picture: Adam Gibson

We’re staying at the hotel this evening and, after such a satisfying meal, there’s nothing more delightful than knowing our bed is just an elevator and a few steps away.