Faro dishes up a fiesta for the senses with El Culto De Espana

Faro’s new Spanish inspired menu, the captivating location and the performances all combine to create an evening that is entirely unique, writes TasWeekend food reviewer Alix Davis

EL CULTO DE ESPANA

Faro

655 Main Rd, Berriedale

Opening hours: Thursday-Monday lunch 12 noon, Thursday-Sunday dinner 6pm

On the menu

Tapas bar; avocado gazpacho with goat curd ice cream and churros; salt cod, clams and mussels with black rice; venison with charcoal fondant; crème catalana with PX caramel

True to their tongue-in-cheek promise to offer diners “Hobart’s second-best revolving restaurant”, the team at Mona’s Faro have recently launched their next theme and this time we are being transported to Spain. Gone is the riotous discord of Tokyo Punk and in its place are the mellow sounds of classical guitar, instantly transporting us to the parched hills of Andalucia by way of Berriedale.

As usual, I have very little idea of what is happening when I visit Mona. However, despite the entire evening being performed in Spanish there is a discernible and haunting theme of birth, marriage and death. After all, it wouldn’t be Mona if there wasn’t a little sex and death involved.

A selection of dishes from Faro’s El culto de Espana menu. Photo Credit: Mona/Jesse Hunniford

Our set menu ($150) begins with a plate of tapas and pinxtos – Spain is famous for its small snacks that are designed to be eaten with drinks. A shot glass of onion and sherry soup gets us started – it’s rich and creamy with a hit of crunchy garlic on top. A shard of toast is topped with flavourful smoked tomato sorbet and olive emulsion while chargrilled baby corn topped with romesco sauce and manchego is a sophisticated take on elote – a popular Mexican street snack. As we work our way through the tapas – matched by a glass of Moorilla Muse Extra Brut Rose, performers enter the soaring space wearing linen robes and singing what appears to be a traditional tune. As the three women sweep through the room, they are joined by three guitarists, whose skills throughout the evening are mesmerising.

The Helado De Crema ice cream sundae, featuring avocado gazpacho, goat curd ice cream, green tomato jelly, compressed cucumber, churros. Picture: Mona/Jesse Hunniford

A bowl of vibrant avocado gazpacho served with a savoury churro is next; the chilled soup is spicy and full of flavour, with a textural crunch provided by a roasted salt and vinegar pumpkin seed topping. While churros are usually dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with a pot of chocolate sauce for dipping, this savoury version is distinctly more-ish (or is that Moorish?).

The Piso Ardiente – Fire Floor featuring seared wild harvested venison, charcoal fondant, chewy carrot and orange, burnt onion, Pedro Ximenez, purple basil, fried leek, saltbush. Picture: Mona/Jesse Hunniford

A salad course combines leafy greens with vegetable leather and jubes, as well as edible cellophane and comes with a plate of charred peppers and crisps along with Mona’s version of “bon appetit”, which is not suitable to print in a family publication.

One of the Mona Music Ensemble's el Culto de España performers. Picture Courtesy Mona.

Village maidens have been replaced by three brides who then morph into flamenco dancers with cascading dresses and impressive footwork. Keeping a beat is not one of my skills, but I can certainly appreciate the rhythm that reverberates through my chest as the dancers perform. Flamenco is an art form based on the various folkloric music traditions of southern Spain, developed within the Romani subculture of the region of Andalucia and this evening, the dancers seem to enter an almost trancelike state as the guitar music builds.

Bacalao – salted cod – is a staple of Spanish and Portuguese cuisine and tonight it’s the key ingredient in a dish called “Red Sea/Black Sea” – a rich seafood stew of cod, mussels and a slick of Basque guindilla chilli oil served over black rice and seared, blackened with squid ink.

One of the Mona Music Ensemble's el Culto de España performers who performs during Faro’s El Culto De Espana experience. Picture: Courtesy Mona.

As we eat, the performers move through the room offering mini tarot readings – I’m not a believer but do manage to pick a card whose character shares my name.

Faro was purpose built to house the light artwork of James Turrell and both Event Horizon and Seen Unseen can be visited during the meal. Both these artworks are difficult to describe but well worth experiencing – both evoke a visceral reaction from me and even our somewhat sceptical dining companion is left speechless by Event Horizon.

The Perla Naranja featuring Orange, crema catalana, PX caramel, grapefruit, and coca nibs. Picture: Mona/Jesse Hunniford

Executive chef Vince Trim is committed to sustainable dining and the final main dish is wild-harvested venison from South Australia, beautifully seared and served with a carrot puree, burnt onion and a splash of Pedro Ximinez. It’s hearty, yet not overwhelming for the last days of summer.

The Gaudi waz’ere featuring Meringue, roasted plum sorbet, sheep's milk yoghurt, fennel, and walnuts. Picture: Mona/Jesse Hunniford

Many streets in southern Spain are lined with orange trees and citrus flavours are at the fore in one of the desserts – a classic crème catalan encased in a chocolate orange shell. The alternate dessert is equally delicious – an ethereal meringue enveloping a roasted plum sorbet.

The food, the location (both the building and the view) and the performances all combine to create an evening that is entirely unique and feels like it couldn’t happen anywhere else – especially as we get a private viewing of Richard Wilson’s 20:50 sump oil installation on the way out. Thank you Faro, for an evening to remember.