TasWeekend: Perfectly Frank is anything but fugly

REVIEW: FRANK is housed in a building that could charitably be referred to as “fugly”. Once you’re inside the dining room on the ground floor of the Marine Board building, though, it is anything but.

In the large room edged by three sides of smoky glass, it feels as if you’ve been deposited into a retro ’70s scotch tumbler awaiting the fixings of a pina colada to be poured over you. Picture: SAM ROSEWARNE

FRANK is housed in a building that could charitably be referred to as “fugly”. Once you’re inside the dining room on the ground floor of the Marine Board building, though, it is anything but.

In the large room edged by three sides of smoky glass, it feels as if you’ve been deposited into a retro ’70s scotch tumbler awaiting the fixings of a pina colada to be poured over you. When full, which is on most nights, Frank whisks the energy level up to 11, raising the tempo of expectation.

ON THE MENU House pickles $4.30; empanadas $5.90; morcilla $20.50; octopus $23.50; tira de ancho $43; charred vegetables $18; charred sweet potato $12.50; crisp potatoes $10.90; choc-hazelnut crème brulee brownie $15.50

Like its sibling venues within the Hobart Restaurant Group, Smolt Kitchen and Smolt, Frank shares its DNA with a distinctive design mandate that is particularly welcome with so much Scandi-influenced this and subway-tiled that proliferating elsewhere.

The food takes its cues from the asados and parrillas of Argentina and more generally the food of South America. While there is an obvious focus on grilling meat, the vegetable dishes are compelling and delicious.

On previous visits we were greeted enthusiastically by whoever was manning the door and this manner continued with the wait staff who tended our table. On this occasion, however, the greeting is dutiful and our waitperson’s manner perfunctory, though not unfriendly.

The highlight of the service is a visit to our table by Jake, one of the managers. Gracious, smiling and generous with his time, he cements himself in my books as one of the best front-of-house people working in Hobart.

The menu is an engaging collection of many international culinary influences that have pollinated the cuisine of South America, and does not play safe by solely relying on the charcoal grill.

The morcilla – hunks of grilled blood sausage among a tumble of braised chickpeas with a pleasingly acidic and spice dressing – is delicious. Pictures: SAM ROSEWARNE

As well as indigenous and Spanish food, there is also a sprinkling of Caribbean, African and even nods to Japan informing the food choices. The extensive drinks list logically features numerous South American wines.

We start with some tangy, vibrantly coloured house pickles and two cheesy empanadas. My dining companion enjoys a specialty cocktail, a grapefruit caipirinha, and our entrees arrive. The morcilla — hunks of grilled blood sausage among a tumble of braised chickpeas with a pleasingly acidic and spice dressing — is delicious.

And the octopus is outstanding. Rendered tender then scorched on the grill and garnished with grilled avocado, smoky paprika mayonnaise and a multitude of finely chopped vegetables and herbs, it is the best dish of the night.

The chargrilled octopus.

Grilled sweet potato. Picture: SAM ROSEWARNE.

Though not every seat is taken, the place is buzzing; it is encouraging to see a restaurant in Hobart doing such cracking business.

We choose the tira de ancho (Argentinian cut similar to boneless rib eye), the grilled sweet potato, the chargrilled vegetables and their signature crisp potatoes as our mains.

The meat is well-rested and flavoursome, if a little cool, served with chimichurri and piquillo sauces on the side. The three vegetable dishes are substantial.

We are seated close to the kitchen, which added to the theatre of watching the brigade work the fiery grill.

FRANK RESTAURANT AND BAR 1 Franklin Wharf, Hobart. Open daily, 11am until late. Licensed. Ph: 6231 5005

There are four desserts and what better way to end a South American meal than with a chocolate dessert? We choose the choc-hazelnut crème brulee brownie to share, as well as a couple of espressos. The rich brownie provides the sweet hit I am craving and the dark chocolate lingers pleasingly.

Vibrant and assured, Frank is one of those restaurants where great times meet at the juncture of excellent food, snappy service and interesting design.

If only they could clone Jake.