New Hobart charter boat company explores Tasmania’s natural richness at sea and on plate

A newly launched cruise company taking passengers on a dining trip upstream to the acclaimed Agrarian Kitchen is a must-do Tasmanian experience, writes James Kitto.

Embarking on Hobart Boat Charters at Brooke Street Pier.

IT’S Saturday morning and I’m aboard the 11m vessel Wild Thing with seven other passengers and our guides for the day: brothers Rob and Jack Knight of Hobart Boat Charters.

Had my double-shot latte at Brooke Street Pier not woken me up, the fresh breeze brushing my face as we cruise up the River Derwent certainly will.

Hobart Boat Charters on the River Derwent. Picture: SUPPLIED

I’ve never eaten at New Norfolk’s Agrarian Kitchen Eatery, but I’ve heard great things, so I’m excited to be part of this inaugural Agrarian Kitchen Long Lunch experience.

The Knight brothers’ new gourmet offering follows their popular Bruny Island Long Lunch experience.

On the trip up river, we stop a few times for Rob to share some of the river’s history.

When we idle under the Tasman Bridge we are given a stark reminder of its tragic collapse in 1975, when the SS Lake Illawarra collided with the structure.

Further up, we detour to take a close look at the new Bruny Island ferry in its final stage of construction at Claremont’s Richardson Devine Marine.

Bec Shelley photographing the scenery at the northern end of the River Derwent on one of Hobart Boat Charters' cruises to New Norfolk.

When we halt at the Bridgewater Bridge, I consider how few cruise operators make the journey north of Mona. I’ve driven over the Bridgewater Bridge countless times, but never have I travelled under it — or even seen it lift to allow a boat to pass.

The vineyards, farms and stunning cliffs we pass give us a fresh perspective on some of the state’s unheralded natural treasures in this emerging tourism region.

The cruise wraps up after about an hour when we arrive in New Norfolk and stroll 15 minutes to the eatery, located within historic Willow Court, once a mental asylum.

On deck of Hobart Boat Charters.

Adding mystery to a precinct where ghost tours are held, I hear talk among the group about what dishes may or not be on our set menu.

Rob says it’s all about trusting the chefs to feed us, based on what is in season from their cooking school and farm, or what their network of local growers, farmers and fishermen have delivered.

The two-hatted Agrarian Kitchen restaurant has been a magnet for foodies since its 2017 opening.

Inside the Agrarian Kitchen Eatery. Picture: ADAM GIBSON

Taking my seat at our shared table and turning over my menu, I can’t wait to tuck into what the restaurant’s acclaimed chefs have on the boil.

First up, the eight of us are treated to Blackman Bay oysters with cucumber and dill — fresh, salty and different — three words which could sum up my whole day.

An entree of raw turnip, grapefruit and coriander with dried fish illustrates the chefs’ kitchen brilliance, while a serving of potato cakes is in line with the restaurant’s ability to take something everyday and make it great.

I am hesitant to taste the raw lamb dish on our six-plate degustation menu, but its flavourings of fermented garlic and saltbush give it a mouth-watering bite.

The slow-cooked Broadmarsh lamb neck is a fireworks finish. Falling off the bone, the meat, served with potatoes, zucchini pickle and leaves, is a leave-no-trace sort of dish. The service is outstanding throughout the meal.

At lunch’s end it is time to make our way back to the boat — a walk for which my very full stomach is grateful.

Magnificent scenery onboard the small-charter lunch cruise.

Along the way, we stop by a couple of antique shops on New Norfolk’s Stephen St. Then it’s back onto the boat and back to Brooke Street Pier where we farewell Rob and Jack after a brilliant day.

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The author was a guest of Hobart Boat Charters.