This SoHo cafe is the perfect refuge when the weather’s driving you nuts

The residents of South Hobart are indeed fortunate to have this bustling cafe as their local and, after this brunch, I’m vowing not to leave it too long before my next visit, writes Alix Davis

ALIX DAVIS

2 min read

September 13, 2024 - 4:57PM

Cool cafe Ginger Brown in South Hobart is a popular haunt for lovers of coffee and great food. Picture: RICHARD JUPE

Food and Wine

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Remember a couple of weeks ago when the weather was crazy? Howling winds, torrential rain and snow halfway down the mountain interspersed with brief bouts of blue sky.

I’d been curled up by the fire for what seemed like weeks, so decided to call up some friends for a brunch at Ginger Brown to break the cabin fever.

Apparently, everyone else had the same idea as the joint was absolutely jumping despite the challenging weather conditions. Luckily, I’d booked and we were shown to our table shortly after arriving.

Despite the slight “edge of chaos” vibe, the staff were friendly and efficient and we were happily sipping coffees in no time, while we looked at the extensive all-day menu.

Sure, you could keep it simple and go for toast with any number of combinations of spreads, eggs and sides but we were here for dishes we wouldn’t make at home and the team delivered.

Ginger Brown’s garlic mushroom omelette is one of the best omelettes Alix Davis has eaten in a long time. Picture: Supplied

The garlic mushroom omelette ($24) was hands-down one of the best omelettes I’ve eaten in a long time. Perfectly cooked and not too thick, it was filled with (as promised) wonderfully garlicky mushrooms but also Persian feta, coriander and chilli jam with a flurry of crispy shallots over the top. A well-buttered piece of sourdough toast added some crunch and this is definitely a dish worth getting out of bed for.

Next up was the savoury pancake ($24). I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from this dish, but the pleasingly chubby, almost scone-like pancake that arrived was certainly a crowd pleaser.

Its golden form was topped with zingy pickled zucchini and lightly dressed greens draped over a perfectly poached egg. Under that was a gold mine of bacon jam and a well of melted Gruyere, just asking to be scooped and stretched over the crispy/soft edges of the pancake. This is a generous dish – filling enough to fuel you for a walk up the mountain, or, ahem, an afternoon in front of the fire binge-watching British crime dramas.

If there’s a dish that includes haloumi, I’m probably going to order it.

Ginger Brown’s fresh and wholesome haloumi salad. Picture: Supplied

The haloumi salad ($24) was topped with not one but two thrillingly large slabs of pan-fried haloumi – golden on the outside, soft and squeaky on the inside.

Haloumi originated in Cyprus and is traditionally made from goat milk and sheep milk although in Australia it’s more likely to be made from cow’s milk. Its high melting point makes it ideal for grilling and its almost meaty texture adds real heft to a salad.

In addition to fresh greens and herbs, this salad contained charred corn, Persian feta, some pickled red onion and a little bit of thinly sliced pear – which I loved as I’m a big fan of the sweetness of fruit in the saltiness of a salad.

Ginger Brown’s Monte Carlo biscuits are the perfect sweet treat to have with a coffee. Picture: Supplied

No visit to Ginger Brown would be complete without indulging in a sweet treat or two, and we order a Monte Carlo and a lemon curdy biscuit to go with our second coffee. These biscuits are both excellent – the perfect texture of crisp and soft with enough filling to satisfy without feeling like you’ve just eaten the contents of a sweets shop.

The residents of South Hobart are indeed fortunate to have this bustling cafe as their local and, after this brunch, I’m vowing not to leave it too long before my next visit.