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The fab Hobart restaurant that needs to go to the top of your must-eat list

At Mona’s dazzling waterfront restaurant, every course is an artwork – and every moment, a surprise, writes Alix Davis

Faro features prominently on the waterfront at Berriedale’s, Museum of Old and New Art. Picture: Jesse Hunniford
Faro features prominently on the waterfront at Berriedale’s, Museum of Old and New Art. Picture: Jesse Hunniford

There was an elegant woman enjoying a drink by herself when we went out for dinner the other night. A few minutes after we arrived, she emerged from the bathroom wearing a shaggy, full-length white fur cape, complete with hood, and surprisingly, a few moments after that, she was lying on the floor by the three-piece band that had quietly set up in the corner, with her arms wafting above her.

Even more surprising was the fact that, a few moments after that, my husband was also lying on the floor near the musicians – enjoying the sound bath suggested by the lady in fur. What can I say? It’s Mona, it’s Faro, it’s Salvador Dali. Expect the unexpected.

Refreshed by his sound bath, my husband rejoined me at our table in the soaring space of Faro – Mona’s waterfront restaurant and home to two of artist James Turrell’s immersive light experiences. Faro is known for its ever-changing menu, inspired by art and culture. Their latest inspiration is Spanish surrealist Salvador Dali – known for his melting clocks, his carefully coiffed moustache and his enduring label design for Chupa Chups. The surrealist movement was interested in connecting the subconscious to reality and celebrated decadence, death and immortality. All of which is rich material for executive chef Vince Trim’s new menu.

Faro bar and restaurant's Pool of darkness. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Pool of darkness. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford

Evenings are a set five or seven-course menu and we begin with a plate of “F--- art let’s eat” appetisers. Dali’s work often included images of objects that were transforming, or not what they seemed, which is a jumping off point for the “Gucci oyster” – a real oyster shell that holds a “faux oyster” of fermented cucumber, kombucha pearls and bonito flakes. It’s got a little more crunch than a real oyster, but that flavour of the sea is still there. A delicate porcelain egg holds hollandaise ice cream with broccolini and parmesan cream, and, as no spoon is provided, we find ourselves sucking a saffron coating off a china cast of David Walsh’s finger and then using that to eat the wonderfully savoury ice cream.

It’s both disgusting and hilarious, I imagine Dali would have loved it and it’s all part of the fun of “dinner and a show” at Faro.

Faro bar and restaurant's Meat is murder dish. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Meat is murder dish. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Exquisite Corpse. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Exquisite Corpse. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford

Previously, the wine list at Faro has featured wines only from Moorilla and Domaine A (both part of the Mona family). They’ve now expanded their focus to other Tasmanian wineries along with a few from South Australia and Western Australia and some French Champagne. There’s plenty available by the glass or you can choose from three tiers of wines matched to the meal. The cocktails each carry a descriptor – one is fresh, balanced and zesty, while another is psychedelic and hallucinogenic. You’ll have to make up your own mind – there’s a limit to what I’ll do in the name of research.

A stunning bowl of salad named “Dali’s Garden” is a wonderful mixture of asparagus, honeydew, avocado, pistachio milk gazpacho and a multitude of herbs from the “Victory Garden” planted during Covid. Each mouthful is a combination of textures and flavours and whoever said you can’t make friends with salad, obviously hadn’t eaten this one.

Faro bar and restaurant's Dali's garden. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Dali's garden. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford

While we’re eating, performance art continues as the musicians and our lady in fur – now wearing a black hat and heavy veil, make their way around the room. This is very much part of the experience and I highly recommend embracing whatever opportunities come your way. In addition to what’s happening in the dining room (I think I hear a xylophone rendition of Happy Birthday at one point), diners are also able to experience one or both of Turrell’s works – Event Horizon and Unseen Seen – for an additional charge.

These immersive works of art are difficult to explain and well worth experiencing.

Faro bar and restaurant's Blood Velvet. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's Blood Velvet. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's El-oceano-dorado. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford
Faro bar and restaurant's El-oceano-dorado. Picture: Courtesy of Mona/ Jesse Hunniford

There’s a lot to take in during a meal at Mona – Trim is not a “three things on a plate” style of chef and each dish is an elaborate and complex collection of ingredients and techniques, put together with skill and confidence.

There’s a philosophy of sustainability here, so you won’t find chicken or beef on the menu. A dish of Bennett’s wallaby tartare (aka “Exquisite Corpse”) is perfectly proportioned and seasoned, then served with paper thin crisps of vegetable, bread and seed crackers.

The “Dark Pool” features finely sliced calamari in a bowl with squid ink congee and abalone, which is both delicate and robust. “Blood and Velvet” pairs wild-caught venison with slow-cooked wallaby shank and a sweet morass of blackberry, prunes and beetroot.

Some of the world’s great museums have one good restaurant, very few of them have two great ones. We are so fortunate to have Mona on our doorstep and Faro should be going to the top of your must-eat list as soon as possible. Shaggy fur cape optional.

Faro Restaurant + Bar, Pharos. Picture: Supplied by Mona/Jesse Hunniford
Faro Restaurant + Bar, Pharos. Picture: Supplied by Mona/Jesse Hunniford

FARO

Mona

655 Main Rd, Berriedale

Opening hours: Fri-Mon, 2pm-4pm for lunch. Fri and Sat, 5.30pm for dinner

On the menu

Set menu, $135 pp

Dali’s garden salad, Bennett’s wallaby tartare, venison with wallaby shank crepinette, chocolate cremeux with chocolate torte

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Original URL: https://www.themercury.com.au/lifestyle/food-wine/the-fab-hobart-restaurant-that-needs-to-go-to-the-top-of-your-musteat-list/news-story/b77874f223d61be8c7f4fe77c3557a76