Convict-built mill now offers laidback lunches with picture-perfect views
Nestled beside green fields and an historic water-powered mill, Clyde Mill serves hearty Tasmanian dishes that pair beautifully with whisky and one of the best outlooks in the state, writes Alix Davis
This might be a bold statement, but in my opinion, there are few restaurants in Tasmania with an outlook as pretty as that from the main dining room at Clyde Mill.
Reborn from the metaphoric ashes of Nant Distillery, Clyde Mill looks out over green fields of gambolling spring lambs, a stream that’s home to platypuses and an historic water-powered mill that’s still very much in working order.
And the view up at the table is not bad either – hearty dishes featuring local ingredients, with a slant towards game – a strategy that plays nicely with whisky.
It’s a stunning spring day when we visit Clyde Mill – the first time it’s been warm enough for host Jane to resist lighting the open fireplace that usually warms the convict-built mill-turned-restaurant-and-distillery.
But with the sun beaming in through the walls of the glass pavilion, there’s no need for extra heat, and all we need to do is relax and make our lunch selection. With a long background in hospitality, including time running a restaurant housed in a 14th-century building in Essex, Jane and partner/chef Andy are no strangers to historic surroundings and creating food to suit.
We begin with a generous slab of classic country terrine ($22) – made of pork and chicken and served with plenty of hot, buttered toast and syrupy figs. There’s a little livery richness in each bite and the crunchy pickles on the side are the ideal cut-through. Next up are thick wedges of kent pumpkin ($19), roasted to a pudding-like softness and scattered with spiced nuts flecked with cumin seeds. Tangy goats cheese offsets the natural sweetness and tender broccolini stems add a hit of green.
Clyde Mill is owned by John and Annie Ramsay, Bothwell locals who have been farming in the region for generations. While their whisky is ageing, there is a preview series available for tastings and purchase along with their gin. The restaurant can seat 50 people and plans are already under way to expand the property’s capacity for stunning country weddings and events. A private dinner for 8-10 in the mill itself – next to the water-powered wheel – would be a unique way to mark a special occasion. There’s plenty of history to be discovered here and in addition to lunches, the restaurant is open on Friday nights.
Our main courses are hearty and substantial – a duck Maryland ($36) has been cooked confit (honestly, the only way I like duck done) and falls off the bone with the merest push of a fork. The skin has been spiced and crisped, and it’s served over a cassoulet-style stew of butterbeans, woodland mushrooms and vegetables. The flavours are rich and earthy, and this is a dish to keep chills (and the ongoing wild winds!) at bay.
I definitely have a weakness for a good savoury pie and this local venison version ($29) only increases my love for chunks of meat and gravy enclosed in golden pastry. Caramelised edges are an unexpected treat and smooth mash topped with a whisky cream sauce makes this a substantial meal.
The drinks list is short but sweet – whisky is obviously in attendance, but there are Tasmanian beers, wines and ciders on offer, with a small selection of wines by the glass.
Of course, we’ve left room for dessert and an indulgent chocolate and hazelnut cake (selection changes regularly) comes infused with whisky and slightly warmed. A puddle of cream always pairs well with chocolate and the cracked top and fudgy centre make this an easy-to-eat dessert. My husband has a weakness for creme caramel ($15) and here it’s scented with Clyde Mill whisky and oranges. The delicate custard is smooth, creamy and perfectly set.
If you’re looking for a picturesque drive, a laidback lunch and views for miles, grab a group and head to Bothwell for Clyde Mill’s history, whisky and hospitality. You won’t regret it.
CLYDE MILL
254 Nant Lane, Bothwell
Opening hours: Thurs-Mon 10am-4pm, and Fri from 5pm
On the menu:
Pork and chicken terrine, $22; roasted kent pumpkin, $19; venison pie with mash, $29; confit duck with butterbean stew, $36; creme caramel, $15
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