New Tassie eatery’s menu anchors global brand firmly in Hobart
There’s no bland, seen-it-all-before hotel food – at this new Hobart restaurant – here, instead there’s a beautifully executed menu that puts Tassie produce in the spotlight, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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Hobart’s newest hotel is a global brand spanning 47 countries, 680 hotels and a history going back to 1969 and a family-run hotel in Scottsdale, Arizona. Despite this mass appeal, DoubleTree by Hilton Hobart delivers a unique sense of place thanks to its restaurant, Leatherwood, and executive chef Nathan Chilcott. No bland, seen-it-all-before hotel food here, instead there is a thoughtful and beautifully executed menu that puts Tasmanian produce in the spotlight.
We begin with a glass of Tasmanian wine and cider – there are plenty on offer – before diving into a selection of entrees. Chef Nathan was most recently at Mures, so has an affinity with fresh seafood, that’s put to good use here. Tender slices of sauteed abalone ($44) are served in the shell on a bed of pearlescent shells and topped with a delicate, Tasmanian native saffron-scented sauce studded with sea asparagus from Coningham and dusted with native pepperberry. It’s a luxurious dish and one I highly recommend.
Bass Strait scallops ($27), small and sweet, sit on a bed of cauliflower puree and are dotted with native sea blite – a succulent foraged by Nathan that’s similar to samphire and is much tastier than its name would imply.
I skip the oysters ($6 either natural or with a choice of two dressings) though I recommend you don’t, and opt for the zucchini cucumber salad ($19).
This tangle of lightly dressed and thinly shaved zucchini, cucumber and fennel is the kind of dish I could eat every day and when it comes atop a puddle of fresh Tongola cheese… say no more.
The dining room is spacious with a central banquette as well as tables placed around the room. It leads off the bar, which offers patrons comfortable lounge seating and also serves as the breakfast area (friends who have stayed overnight tell me that the buffet – or room service – breakfast offering is excellent).
The 206 rooms have views spanning from the mountain to the waterfront and there’s also a 15m pool for lap swimming or lounging and a wood-fired sauna.
Mains include seafood options as well as proteins from the grill. I’m tempted by a pot of mussels with tangy capers and yuzu ($36), but settle on the kunzea marinated chicken breast ($36) and the market fish ($38), which today is trevally served with native asparagus and a citrusy yuzu sauce.
Of course, we can’t forget the sides (all $15) and there are plenty to choose from. Grilled broccolini is served with lemon oil and almonds over Tongola curdy; and I’d be pretty happy with it as a main. The roasted Dutch carrots are tender and flavourful on a bed of garlic-infused hummus, and the baby cos wedge salad is cool and crisp with just the right amount of parmesan, pickled shallots and dressing in each mouthful. I’m not usually one for ordering chicken at a restaurant but this breast is moist, dusted with kunzea and served with a crackle of crushed chicken skin on top.
We have left a little room for dessert and Chilcott has again brought Tasmania to the fore with an apple pie ($16) that’s delicately constructed with many, many layers of thinly sliced local apples. This is no mushy pie filling – there’s a gentle bite to the apple and the Tasmanian whisky butterscotch sauce (with a jug on the side) is extremely moreish. If they sold it in jars, I’d be taking some home.
Our other dessert is a leatherwood creme brulee ($16) that comes with a perfectly scorched top and a finger of lemon myrtle shortbread. The top cracks open most satisfyingly and the rhubarb compote provides a nice tang against the sweetness. This dessert is served on a bed of beeswax tablets.
Please note that, although they look like pieces of fudge, they are in fact, beeswax. Ask my husband how he knows! Leatherwood is an ideal location for a business get-together or special occasion, with food that anchors this global brand firmly in Hobart.
LEATHERWOOD
at DoubleTree
by Hilton
179 Macquarie St, Hobart
Opening hours: Breakfast and dinner, 7 days
On the menu:
Three Friends abalone, $44; Bass Strait scallops, $27; zucchini cucumber salad, $19; market fish, $38; kunzea marinated chicken breast, $36; Tasmanian apple pie, $16; Leatherwood creme brulee, $16
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