Hobart fine dining establishment Aloft is a “must-eat” destination for tourists and locals

This waterfront dining establishment is serving some of Hobart’s most exceptional food, with beautifully executed dishes inspired by local produce, writes Alix Davis. See what’s on the menu.

Perched high in a waterfront eyrie, cocooned by natural textures and timber-lined walls, you’ll find Aloft, a Hobart mainstay serving some of the city’s most exceptional food.

Once known for its pared-back take on Asian flavours, post-Covid Aloft is focused on modern Tasmanian cuisine with beautifully executed dishes inspired by local producers, growers and suppliers.

An assortment of Aloft's smaller dishes of first and second courses on the set menu including the Bruny Island oysters with onion flower mignonette, Bruny Island wallaby served with sichuan and nasturtium and the masterstock lamb ribs with black vinegar dressing. Picture: Supplied

Having to make all the decisions all the time about everything can be exhausting, so, during a recent dinner with friends, I was happy to sit back and relax as the chef’s menu ($120, plus $80 for matched drinks) unfolded. One of our dining companions has a shellfish allergy, which was handled with ease as she was able to choose whatever substitutions she preferred from the vegetarian/vegan chef’s menu.

A plump oyster dressed simply with an onion mignonette is a fresh splash of the ocean that hints at things to come.

An assortment of Aloft's smaller dishes of first and second courses on the set menu, including tuna, avocado and toasted sesame with white soy and meyer lemon ponzu, scallop sashimi with nasturtium nam Jim jaew, crispy hot and sour eggplant. Picture: Supplied

But, before more seafood, we share a serving of fall-off-the-bone lamb ribs with a tangy black vinegar dressing and a bright, chilli-spiked salsa verde that has me scooping up any leftovers. Wallaby from Bruny Island (a favourite ingredient of chef/owner Christian Ryan) is finely chopped into tartare served on a nori cracker and daubed with wasabi. The crunch of the chip against the tenderness of the wallaby is a wonderful melding of textures.

Thinly sliced, pink-tinged kingfish is served with a simple ponzu dressing and the zest of a Meyer lemon.

Christian Ryan, chef and co-owner of Aloft on Hobart’s waterfront. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

A common theme across the meal is the fragrances and aromas that come from last-minute additions of zested and grated ingredients. Bright lemon, spicy horseradish and sweet mandarin. These are truly dishes that please all the senses – yes, even our ears, as the waitstaff explain each dish without making it seem like a performance.

Aloft has been in business for seven years now and Ryan says that Covid gave them the chance to reset their menu.

“We use ingredients from around us and we don’t cook food from any specific region,” he explains. “I know this space feels fancy, but we want our food to be fun and accessible.

Indulge at Aloft. Chefs at work. Picture: Sam Rosewarne

Having the chef’s menu allows us to take diners on a journey where all the flavours are balanced.”

While the menu changes according to the seasons and what suppliers bring him, Ryan says there are a couple of customer favourites – such as the crispy hot and sour eggplant – that won’t be going anywhere. Thank goodness!

The market fish is blue eye, a deep water fish that’s been caught just off the continental shelf on the west coast. It’s lightly battered and served with a macadamia puree and crisp-tender broccolini. Fish is not usually my protein of choice, but this is my favourite dish of the evening.

One of the main dishes on Aloft's set menu. Blue eye, with macadamia, brassicas, butter, caper and meyer lemon sauce. Picture: Supplied.

Topped with crisp saltbush and finished with lemon zest, this dish is both delicate and full of flavour.

The next main is a fillet of pork that’s been finished on the asado grill for a bit of char. It’s moist and tender, and packs an umami punch thanks to the koji seasoning.

You may have seen Koji appearing on menus in recent years – it has been used by Japanese cooks for centuries to make everything from soy sauce and sake to miso and mirin. It’s a living food made from steamed rice treated with a mould called Aspergillus oryzae. With its side of charred brussels sprouts and a dusting of freshly grated horseradish, this dish is brimming with flavour.

Dessert with a view – caramelised white chocolate, mandarin and buttermilk. Picture: Supplied

The dining room ebbs and flows over the course of the night and the volume levels allow for easy conversation. There’s a mix of couples and groups of friends and I can’t help but steal admiring glances at a table of women all dressed in brightly coloured floral dresses – turns out they’re all fans of a particular clothing label. I love it!

Officially, the last seating is 8.30pm but one couple sits down at 9.15pm to begin their meal – late(r)-night diners take note.

Dessert is a fragrant cloud of Italian meringue with a mandarin centre and a scattering of caramelised white chocolate on top. It’s light and airy but with enough substance to be a satisfying end to a wonderful evening.

Ryan and his team are at the top of their game and Aloft should be on locals’ and visitors’ “must-eat” list at least once.