Cruisy, beachy cafe as popular as ever

A cosy bastion of hot coffee and homemade baked goods, this relaxed cafe in one of Tassie’s popular coastal towns may have undergone an ownership change recently but is proving to be as popular as always, writes Alix Davis.

PARK BEACH CAFE

2 Payeena Rd, Dodges Ferry

Opening hours: Seven days, 7.30am - 2.30pm

On the menu

Omelette roll, $14.50; fruit toast with figs and mascarpone, $11; squid burger, $16; muffins, $5.50.

Park Beach Cafe, at Dodges Ferry, over the road from popular surf spot Park Beach, has a lovely laid-back, beachy vibe. Picture: Chris Kidd

There’s nothing quite like a bracing beach walk to build up an appetite. And so, on a recent brisk morning, we park and make our way east from Dodges Ferry’s Park Beach to the mouth of Carlton River. Rain threatens but there’s barely a breath of wind and the water is crystal clear, with a sweeping view out to Storm Bay. Dogs of all shapes, sizes and athleticism celebrate their off-lead freedom and we make our “good mornings” as we pass rugged-up locals.

Legs stretched and cheeks flushed, we head for the Park Beach Cafe at the Dodges Ferry end of the beach – a cosy bastion of hot coffee and homemade baked goods. There’s plenty of seating on the veranda – complete with colourful crocheted knee rugs – but we err on the side of warmth and decide to eat inside.

Park Beach Cafe’s warm, welcoming interior. Picture: Chris Kidd

There’s a blackboard menu of tempting options as well as a glass cabinet full of the aforementioned baked goods – a fresh tray of chocolate-filled doughnuts is delivered while we make our decision.

We opt for an omelette roll ($14), a breakfast special of fruit loaf ($11) and, just because they’re right there in front of us, an apple, blueberry and rhubarb muffin ($5.50). Of course, coffee is essential and we’re offered a choice of two sizes for our piccolo ($3.50) and end up going with both.

Park Beach Cafe is owned by Will Kingston, who took over from the previous owner in March last year. Prior to the cafe, he had been working as the sous-chef at Prospect House in Richmond, so his kitchen credentials are without question. The move to a cafe environment has been a family-friendly one and Will enjoys supporting and being part of the local community.

Park Beach Cafe’s Park Plate is a popular lunch and brekkie option. Picture: Chris Kidd

As much produce as possible is sourced from nearby farms and producers including Tongola, Bream Creak and Backyard Bounty. “We started out being open four days a week, then increased that to five and now we’re seven days a week,” says Will. “It’s important to me that we’re here and consistent for the local community, as well as visitors from Hobart and tourists.”

In addition to the cafe premises, Will also took over the lease for a shed out the back, which is now the home of Better Botanicals, a local flower farmer and florist. Plans for a liquor license are in the works and once that comes through, the cafe will be open two to three nights a week offering a chef’s table menu.

But for now, I’m focused on breakfast. Hot beverages arrive promptly and our food not long after. The muffin is still slightly warm from the oven and is wonderfully light with chunks of fruit and a crunchy topping of cinnamon sugar. I only intended to eat a small piece, but it was too good not to devour the whole thing.

I’ll be trying one of Will’s friands on my next visit.

Park Beach Cafe’s Omelette Roll which features a velvety smooth omelette. Picture: Chris Kidd

I was expecting the omelette roll to be an omelette that was, you know, rolled. Instead, it was a velvety soft omelette that had been folded and served in a brioche roll. OK, got it! There was a little punch of chill sambal that had been made in-house – as are all their condiments – and it was a wonderful combination of both delicate and zingy flavours. Will says it’s one of their most popular items.

I’m a sucker for fruit toast and this was a good one. Thick slices of locally made fruit bread had been toasted in a sandwich press, giving it a lovely smooth surface, then topped with figs marinated in an Earl Grey syrup and a scoop of rich mascarpone. It was a lot more elegant than my usual Vegemite toast.

Park Beach Cafe’s house-made apple and passionfruit muffin, which features chunks of fruit. Picture: Chris Kidd

Lunches are busy, says Will, with regulars giving the thumbs up to the Park Plate ($21), a serve of housemade baked beans, Ziggy’s bacon, crispy potatoes and a couple of fried eggs. Also popular are the squid burgers ($16) that come with chilli mayo, slaw and chips.

Specials change regularly – a recent truffle delivery has put a truffle risotto on the menu. “I try to use as much as I can from nearby,” says Will, who’s obviously no stranger to creating wonderful food with whatever ingredients comes through his door.

I look forward to returning for dinner soon.