Chance to step back in time at one of Hobart’s grandest establishments
This grand old dame is worth a visit for its history as well as its food and Hobart is fortunate to have it, writes TasWeekend food reviewer Alix Davis >>
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One of Hobart’s grande dames has had a little facelift recently and with her fresh lipstick and rouge (aka a crisply painted facade), Hadley’s Orient Hotel is perfectly placed to greet visitors from “England, Foreign Countries or the Neighbouring Colonies,” as a newspaper advertisement from the 1860s proclaimed. At Hadley’s, the ad promised, those guests would “find every comfort and convenience”, along with a piano in every suite. As if that wasn’t enough, Hadley’s was also the site of Hobart’s first roller skating rink in 1867 and the city’s first ice cream. While the roller rink is no more, the ice cream is still available (more on that later) and Hadley’s is a wonderful living embodiment of Victorian-era Hobart.
When we enter the restaurant – housed in the vast atrium that lies at the centre of the building – the soundtrack is reminiscent of the 1930s and I wish I’d worn a tea dress. Elegant cane furniture is dotted around the space and parlour palms grace the corners. A classic black and white chequered floor adds to ambience and a feeling that we’ve stepped back in time.
The word “Orient” was added to Hadley’s name in 1890 after extensive renovations and at a time when design was heavily influenced by the “exotic East”. The name was also a nod to the Orient Line, which brought visitors to Hobart by ship and the increased interest in travel at the time. The menu reflects the Victorian era’s interest in dishes from far-flung places with influences from countries including India, Morocco and Thailand as well as modern Tasmanian cuisine.
We begin with a plate of Huon Valley Szechuan pepper mushrooms ($16) – meaty mushrooms clad in a light and crispy coating of lip-tingling Szechuan pepper and rice flour. They’re perfect for sharing, and my husband shares from my plate enthusiastically indeed. A swipe of spinach mayo is a tangy accompaniment. Our other starter is a delicate trio of zucchini roulades ($17) – grilled zucchini wrapped around creamy goat’s curd and topped with jewel-like pomegranate seeds. They’re only a mouthful, but there’s plenty of flavour and texture in each one.
There’s plenty to choose from for mains – while most of the dishes are influenced by other cultures, there’s also a Hadley’s Grill section featuring Cape Grim eye fillet, Scottsdale pork rib-eye and Robbins Island scotch fillet – all cooked to your liking and with sides. Delicious as those options sound, we go with golden butter chicken ($28) and Massaman lamb shank ($36). The butter chicken is mild, but full of flavour, with a drizzle of cream over the top and a definite crowd pleaser. Shards of puffed naan, doused in garlic butter and with crispy, yes-please edges are laid across the top of tender chunks of chicken. There’s also plenty of rice to soak up the sauce. A side of greens ($9) is a worthwhile addition – asparagus, broccolini and green beans have been charred tender-crisp then topped with plenty of butter and toasted almonds.
My husband’s Massaman lamb shank is a satisfyingly hefty piece of fall-off-the-bone Wild Clover lamb with a side of new potatoes. There’s plenty of flavour here, but I’d like to see the sauce be a little thicker and richer with a bit more punch.
Hadley’s was the first place in Hobart to offer ice cream, as the original owner – former convict and confectioner John Webb – was the first to profit commercially from ice and used to manage the ice houses on Mt Wellington. His son, Alfred, later opened an ice cream parlour next door. One of Webb’s signature flavours was cucumber and it’s still on the menu today – how could we resist? Paired with a ginger syrup, it’s a delicate flavour and the perfect palate cleanser after our main meal.
Dinner is not the only item on the menu at Hadley’s atrium – Afternoon Tea (from $55) is also popular. With a selection of teas and house-made sweet treats and finger sandwiches, afternoon tea in the atrium is a positively genteel way to spend an afternoon.
Hadley’s takes its history seriously and has been documenting stories from the past for visitors to experience. The Trail of Terrific Tales is available to the public as well as hotel guests and tells of notable guests including Antarctic explorer Roald Amundsen and Mr and Mrs Glidden, who, in 1923, travelled with their car from the Arctic Circle to Tasmania (reality TV back when it was just reality!).
Hadley’s is worth a visit for its history as well as its food and Hobart is fortunate to have it.
HADLEY’S ORIENT HOTEL
34 Murray St, Hobart
Opening hours: Afternoon tea: Fri-Sun, 12.30pm-4pm; Dinner: 7 days, 6pm-9pm
On the menu
Huon Valley mushrooms, $16; zucchini roulade, $17; butter chicken, $28; Massaman lamb shank, $36; cucumber ice cream, $15.
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