Astor Grill is still a class above

This stalwart of the Hobart dining scene is a haven of starched linen tablecloths, timber-panelled dining rooms and well-executed meals that make the most of premium Tasmanian produce.

Call me old-fashioned, but I believe in getting dressed nicely when I’m heading out for dinner. After all, the chef’s made the effort to cook my meal, the waitstaff have made the effort to ensure our food and drinks arrive promptly and as ordered, and the establishment’s owner has made the effort to pull it all together. It seems like putting on a clean outfit is the least I could do. And, quite frankly, I love having a reason to wear something other than my work-from-home clothes.

Dining at Hobart’s Astor Grill with its fine starched linen tablecloths, timber-panelled dining rooms and well-executed meals is always a classy affair.

So, dinner at the Astor Grill was all the excuse I needed to pull something sparkly out of the wardrobe. This almost-40-year stalwart of the Hobart dining scene (it opened in 1982) is a haven of starched linen tablecloths, timber-panelled dining rooms and well-executed meals that make the most of premium Tasmanian produce. “Some people might think we’re old-fashioned, with the tablecloths,” owner Rocky Doniz says, “but customers love the unique atmosphere of classic elegance. We did consider revamping it [when he bought the restaurant about 12 years ago, having worked there for seven years previously] but we decided that it’s such a beautiful building and we wanted people to really feel like they’re going out to dinner and that they can dress up a little bit.”

The Astor’s owner/manager Rocky Doniz, prides himself on the restaurant’s menu which is predominantly Tasmanian and sourced from farmers and growers who treat their animals and produce ethically and with respect. Picture: ZAK SIMMONDS

I love the old-school charm of the main dining room as we settle into our table for two and my husband anticipates a steak. The wine list is extensive, boasting almost 400 bottles, with plenty of Tasmanian wines on offer as well as an international selection. We go with a Coal River riesling that’s perfect with our shared entree of crumbed, feta-stuffed fried olives served with a sharp salsa verde ($13.50). The plump, salty olives have a meaty texture and the crisp, panko crust delivers a satisfying crunch.

The Astor Grill’s crumbed feta-stuffed olives with a sharp salsa verde. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

Other entrees that I’ve already earmarked for our next visit include wild mushroom arancini ($23) and seared Tasmanian scallops ($24.50). Service is excellent, and our waiter is chatty without being intrusive.

Doniz tells me that “Ninety-five per cent of the produce on the menu is Tasmanian,” and is sourced from farmers and growers who treat their animals and produce ethically and with respect.

“I want to know how their animals are treated,” says Doniz, who regularly visits suppliers on location. “It matters to us where our food comes from, and our customers are interested in that too.” There is a wide variety of steaks on offer – this is a grill after all – from suppliers such as Cape Grim, Robbins Island and King Island Beef. I’m tempted by the steak Astor – a menu mainstay – that’s a 200g eye fillet served with stilton crumbs and a blue cheese sauce ($47.50) but my husband ends up selecting a 300g wagyu scotch fillet ($68) served with green beans.

The Astor Grill’s Wild Clover lamb rump with grilled zucchini and peas and mint. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

I order the Wild Clover lamb rump served with grilled zucchini, peas and mint ($42), and of course we can’t go past a side order of duck fat roasted potatoes ($9.50) and elderflower dressed garden leaves ($9.50). If you’re not a red meat eater, there is a basil and pinenut risotto ($32), spiced duck breast ($44) and market fish, and the kitchen is happy to accommodate any dietary requirements.

The Astor Grill’s duck-fat roasted baby potatoes. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

The steak arrives with a selection of four mustards and is a prime example of how exceptional ingredients shine when they’re cooked simply. The perfectly seared crust is full of flavour and the meat (done to medium) is well-marbled and meltingly tender. My husband is already planning his next visit before he takes a second mouthful. The beans are crisp-tender and the potatoes are that wonderful combination of hot, salty carbs.

My lamb is equally delicious – pink and tender with finely sliced zucchini and a hint of lemon. It’s filling without being heavy, our drinks are replenished regularly and the quiet hum of the dining room – full on a Thursday night – give us that real glow of hospitality done well.

The Astor Grill’s Single malt whisky ice cream. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

A night out wouldn’t be the same without dessert and we share the Tasmanian single malt whisky ice cream with candied popcorn ($16). The housemade ice cream is rich and creamy and contrasts nicely with the crisp caramel popcorn and a coconut wafer. Despite his protestations that he was full, my husband manages to devour his fair share.

It has, as Doniz intended, been a real “night out” and I look forward to returning for another evening of good food, done well in a Hobart establishment that deserves many more decades of success.