Three ‘truly great’ Yangarra Estate grenaches
It dominates the south of France, but in Australia it disappeared. These truly great wines add something new on each taste.
At first glance, grenache and pinot noir seem a decidedly odd couple. The late-ripening grenache flourishes in a warm climate, while the early-ripening pinot noir insists on a cool climate. The royal-born pinot noir loses its raison d’être if there is any attempt to increase its yield beyond its comfort zone of 5 to 6 tonnes per hectare. The scullery-maid grenache has for centuries had to suck it up and accept demands for yields twice (and counting) those of pinot noir. It is one of the world’s most widely planted varieties, and is second only to merlot in France. It dominates the south of France, ending up in blends as generously fruity as they are inexpensive.
Its claim to fame as a single variety is France’s Chateau Rayas, which is to grenache what Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is to pinot noir. In Australia, it disappeared into the fortified wines on which the domestic wine industry was built. The turbulent 1980s, with endemic overproduction of grenache and shiraz, was encapsulated in the Vine Pull Scheme legislated in 1987.
This put grenache on centre stage with shiraz, with old, low-yielding vines removed and not replanted. The prices paid in the 1989 vintage saw grenache at $335 per tonne at the bottom of the pile, and shiraz at $800. And today? Grenache in the 2022 vintage brought $1319, the highest average price per tonne of all varieties, pinot noir in second place at $1200.
The rehabilitation of grenache, and link with pinot noir, is the glorious purity and perfume that both varieties can bring to the table. Whole berry and/or whole bunch fermentation are de rigueur, and will most likely bypass small French oak fermenters. Silky tannins are rightly sought by winemakers, along with sunbeams of acidity. McLaren Vale’s Blewitt Springs district is the altar, Yangarra Estate’s winemaker Peter Fraser the choirmaster. Today’s wines are sold on allocation (yangarra.com).
2021 Yangarra Estate Vineyard Old Vine Blewitt Springs Grenache
From 17ha of 1946 bush vines on a deep sandy dune. So scented/perfumed, and I’m gone for all money without even tasting it. Its red-fruit sundae glistens with dew drops on a spider’s web, yet also has a savoury echo on the finish.
97 points, drink to 2041, 14.5% alc, screw cap, $45
2021 Yangarra Estate Vineyard Ovitelli McLaren Vale Grenache
From a 2ha block; berry-sorted, crushed into 675L ceramic eggs; on skins for 133 days, in the eggs for 13 months. A scented rose petal and spice bouquet lays the scene for an intense yet diaphanous palate that oozes layer upon layer of richness.
98 points, drink to 2050, 14.5% alc, screw cap, $80
2020 Yangarra Estate Vineyard High Sands McLaren Vale Grenache
From the 1.7ha Block 31, the highest section of the 1946 bush vines. 50% whole berries, wild yeast open-fermented; matured in a foudre and ceramic eggs for 11 months. Truly great wines add something new on each taste; here, there’s an ethereal, otherworldly purity to the lingering finish and aftertaste.
99 points, drink to 2050, 14.5% alc, screw cap, $300
