How John Davis extended his network of vineyards
Pepper Trees came with vines, but more important was the high-quality winery capable of the fruit for the Hunter Valley.
One-time successful geologist and oil explorer John Davis has assembled an empire of vineyards with its nerve centre in the Hunter Valley and extending to Orange, Wrattonbully and Coonawarra. He has either purchased existing vineyards or planted them, building on his already considerable knowledge as he went. When he purchased Briar Ridge in the Hunter Valley in 1988, he pulled out its existing vineyard that had been planted in 1972 and reoriented the rows.
The vineyard is situated high up on Mount View Road, which in the late 1950s was bare land and a favourite picnic spot during my first trips to the Hunter. Today it is Briar Ridge’s cellar door, run by Davis’s daughter Jaclyn, in one of the most beautiful locations in the Valley. The purchase of Tallavera Grove vineyards in 1994 (also in Mount View, and adjacent to Briar Ridge) and Pepper Tree in 2002 marked significant expansions.
Pepper Tree came with vines, but more important was the high-quality winery capable of handling all of the fruit for the Hunter Valley brands plus the option of handling some of Carillion’s Orange grapes. At another level, grapes can be used by any one of the entities – as is the case with any other group asset.
The 2013 growing season was typical for the Hunter Valley: winter and spring were dry, and in January the heat intensified, hitting 45.7C in Sydney until 150mm of rain fell on Australia Day. Most of the semillon had been picked, and after a subsequent week of dry weather harvest was completed by February 17.
Consultant winemaker Jim Chatto was brought in to help with the vintage and remembers the difficulties well. It was one of those serendipitous moments when I tasted the 2013 museum wines profiled this week and spoke to Chatto and Davis and found out that he (Chatto) had once again taken on the consulting role in the wake of Gwyn Olsen’s move to Henschke.
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2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Coquun Single Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz
Ex Tallawanta Vineyard. Five-day cold soak then warmed for inoculation with cultured yeast; matured for 18 months in French puncheons (40% new). Lovely shiraz; gloriously complex and textured, ripe tannins. 14.5% alc, screwcap
98 points, drink to 2053, $140
2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Alluvius Single Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon
From the Braemore Vineyard, planted on alluvial sandy soil. Whole bunch-pressed, only free run juice used. Glorious 10 year-old wine, the purity so intense it is almost painful. Lemon zest, Granny Smith apple; acidity perfect. 10.7% alc, screwcap
97 points, drink to 2048, $90
2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Limited Release Tallawanta Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon
Tallawanta is best known for its sublime shiraz, but if the vintage was very good the semillon is nipping at its heels. This wine is glorious, the detail, balance, length, aftertaste all perfect. 11.5% alc, screwcap
99 points, drink to 2053, $130