Tyrell’s 2021 Old Patch, 8 Acres, 4 Acres shiraz review: The ultimate example of a medium-bodied shiraz, James Halliday says
This 2021 drop is the ultimate example of a medium-bodied shiraz achieved without a skerrick of new oak.
Last week I told the story of the Hunter Valley’s Maurice O’Shea, the offspring of a French mother and Irish father, who bestowed the name Mount Pleasant on the 3.1ha Hunter Valley shiraz vineyard they gave him. It had been planted in 1880 by Charles King on vivid red soil, variously described as volcanic or red clay, and is regarded as the most desirable for shiraz.
This week I cover Tyrrell’s, a five-generation winery, that has by far the largest holding of wines released each year made from vines planted at least 100 years ago. Five are shiraz, two semillon and one chardonnay. For several reasons, mostly space related, I cover the things the three Tyrrell’s shirazs featured below have in common.
Most importantly, they are quintessential medium-bodied shiraz, with alcohol of 13% to 13.3%, all hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard using timeworn 4kg black buckets strewn through the rows of vines in advance to replace full buckets. The grapes are either passed through a destemmer on the way to the fermenter (installed in a new facility built in 2016), or direct to the fermenter for the whole bunch inclusion. The winery has a healthy population of wild yeast, cultured commercial yeast not required. They spend 10 to 12 days on skins before being pressed to 3-year-old French oak casks for 14 months maturation.
Long experience takes guesswork out of the equation. Unless there has been a last-minute catastrophe (such as flood, hail, frost or bushfire) the Tyrrell’s team will have fermenters and casks readied for each wine before picking commences. Moreover, this is the way wine has been made since vinous dawn, O’Shea wines no exception. Dr Max Lake’s Hunter Winemakers (published 1970) quotes contemporary records of the vintages between 1858 and 1865; two very good, three very rainy; three before and after the rain; and one decimated by caterpillars. Today’s winemakers have an easy time of it.
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Tyrrell’s Wines Shiraz
2021 Tyrrell’s Old Patch Hunter Valley Shiraz
Vines planted in 1867, the oldest shiraz in NSW.
The grapes were hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard, bucket-by-bucket, not crushed, only whole berries and bunches. It is sheer perfection; the ultimate example of a medium-bodied shiraz achieved without a skerrick of new oak.
13% alc, screwcap 99 points, drink to 2071, $180
2021 Tyrrell’s 8 Acres Hunter Valley Shiraz
Vines planted 1892. Cherries take control of the bouquet, the medium-bodied palate nodding in agreement, but bringing more, much more, to the party: a luscious assemblage of red and purple fruits. Whole bunches and berries have also contributed, tannins not a mere sinecure.
13.3% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2041, $180
2021 Tyrrell’s 4 Acres Hunter Valley Shiraz
Vines planted 1879. This is the lightest-bodied of the quartet of Tyrrell’s wines made from vines planted in the 19th century. Cherry blossom perfume fills the bouquet, the palate opening with red and black cherries, moving through to a gently savoury finish.
13% alc, screwcap 95 points, drink to 2033, $180