This glamorous bread is France’s equal to focaccia

The striking leaf-like shape, which is meant to resemble an ear of wheat, is created by cutting slashes into the dough before baking, giving it a distinctive, almost primitive look.

Lennox Hastie’s elegant French focaccia is fragrant and delicious. Photo: Nikki To

Fougasse is a French bread that often plays ­second fiddle to its glamourous Italian cousin, focaccia. But it is worthy of our ­attention. Found in the bustling markets of Provence, fougasse is a bread with a robust character. Its golden crust is punctuated by pockets of olives and rosemary, making it the perfect companion to a little aperitif or alongside the bourride. The striking leaf-like shape, which is meant to resemble an ear of wheat, is created by cutting slashes into the dough before baking, giving it a distinctive, almost primitive look.

Like the bourride, the fougasse dough is simple: flour, water, yeast and salt. It is the additions that make each one unique, and I like to throw some chilli, capers and anchovies into the mix. Baked until it’s golden and crisp on the outside but soft and chewy on the inside, it is perfect for mopping up the last bits of my humble French seafood stew.

Fougasse is a French treat. Photo: Nikki To

Use the bread to soak up this beautiful French fish stew. Photo: Nikki To

Fougasse

Ingredients

• 400g bread flour
• 350ml warm water
• 10g salt
• 7g dried yeast
• 40ml olive oil
• 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped
• 2 sprigs thyme, leaves picked
• 40g kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped
• 40g green olives, pitted and roughly chopped
• 4 anchovy fillets, chopped
• 10g capers
• 1 teaspoon chilli flakes
• Sea salt

Method

1. In a mixing bowl, combine 100g of bread flour, 100ml of water and 1g of dried yeast. Mix well until a smooth batter forms. Cover and leave out at room temperature for 8 to 12 hours, or overnight, until bubbly and doubled in size. This will be your starter. In a large mixing bowl, combine the remaining bread flour, warm water and salt. Add the starter and mix for 1 to 2 minutes until a rough dough forms.
2. Cover and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Add the remaining 6g of yeast to the mixture and then gradually add 20ml of the olive oil while continuing to mix.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead for about 6-8 minutes until smooth and elastic.
4. Flatten the dough slightly and fold through the chopped rosemary, thyme leaves, kalamata olives, green olives, anchovy fillets, capers and chilli flakes. Fold the dough over the ingredients and knead gently to incorporate them evenly throughout the dough. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let it rise for about 1 hour or until doubled in size.
5. Turn out the dough onto a floured surface and knead into a ball. Divide the dough into two equal portions. Shape each portion into a flat, elongated oval, about 1-2 cm thick. Place the shaped dough onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using a sharp knife or kitchen scissors, make a series of diagonal cuts in the dough (two in the centre and 6 either side) to create the characteristic leaf or ear shape of fougasse. Gently tease the cuts apart to accentuate the shape.
6. Cover the shaped dough with a damp cloth and let it rise for another 30-45 minutes.
7. Preheat your oven to 220C. Brush a little olive oil over the top of the dough and sprinkle with sea salt. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the fougasse is golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.
8. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly, serving warm.