Lennox Hastie’s fish and mussel soup is a tasty alternative to bouillabaisse
While bouillabaisse is a colourful celebration of the sea, bourride is a humble fish stew. The beauty lies in its simplicity, transforming the catch of the day into something extraordinary.
More often than not, it’s the quiet, unassuming things that leave the most indelible impression. There are some dishes that linger in the shadows of their more celebrated counterparts, but quietly showcase their own unique appeal.
Bourride and fougasse (see my recipe here) are two such examples, often overshadowed respectively by the popular bouillabaisse and the ubiquitous focaccia. While they may not possess the fame of their more illustrious cousins, they remain a symbol of the spirit of their region – straightforward, satisfying and authentic, with a deep connection to Provence and its people.
While bouillabaisse is a colourful celebration of the sea, bourride is a humble fish stew. The beauty lies in its simplicity, transforming the catch of the day into something extraordinary with just some aioli and a splash of white wine. There’s no need for a cast of thousands; just a few good ingredients, lovingly prepared and allowed to shine. Like any good soup, it’s all about the broth, so it is worth taking the time to make a flavourful stock from the bones of the fish, some good vegetables and a touch of white wine.
Bourride is traditionally made with firm white fish that can stand up to the rich, creamy broth without losing its character, but sometimes I like to embellish it with clams, mussels or even prawns. The secret to its creamy consistency lies in the generous dollop of aioli; a rich emulsion, whisked in right at the end to deliver a resounding punch of sweet garlic whilst the eggs create a velvety texture.
Bourride
Ingredients
- 1kg fish bones, chopped, washed and drained
- 2 white onions
- 2 sticks celery
- 2 medium leeks, split and washed well
- 1 bulb fennel
- Handful parsley
- ½ teaspoon fennel seeds
- ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
- 1 lemon
- 200ml dry white wine
- 1 litre water
- 300g fingerling potatoes, halved
- 500g firm white-fleshed fish, cut in 2cm pieces
- 1kg mussels, cleaned, beards removed
- 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and diced
- Sea salt
Aioli
- 2-3 cloves garlic, peeled
- 2 egg yolks
- ½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
- ¾ teaspoon salt
- 1 pinch Espelette pepper
- 140ml olive oil
- 200ml grapeseed oil
- Pinch dill sprigs, to serve
Method
- First make the base stock. Finely slice one of the onions, one stick of celery, the exterior of the fennel bulb and the top part of the leek. Heat 20ml of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the white onion, fennel, celery and leek with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, for about 5-6 minutes until soft and tender.
- Meanwhile cut the remaining onion, celery, fennel and tender part of the leek into 1cm dice, adding any vegetable trimmings and the tomato seeds to the stock. Add the fish bones, coriander and fennel seeds and parsley stalks, stirring to coat evenly. Add the white wine and reduce the liquid in the pan by half. Add the water to just cover the bones, bring to the boil and lightly simmer for 30 minutes, skimming regularly. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before passing the fish broth through a sieve, discarding the solids.
- Heat 20ml of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat to saute the diced white onion, fennel, celery, leek and bay leaf with a pinch of salt for about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the base stock and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and simmer for about 12 to 15 minutes until tender.
- To make the ailoi, place garlic, egg yolks, mustard, salt, Espelette pepper and a ladle of the fish broth (I like to throw in a couple of the cooked potatoes) in a blender and puree until combined. While the machine is still running, add the remaining 100ml of olive oil and grapeseed oil in a slow, steady stream. The sauce should emulsify, with a thick, pale consistency like mayonnaise. Taste for seasoning and then set aside.
- Now add the fish and the mussels to the broth and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the mussels pop open and the fish is just cooked through. Whisk the aioli into the pot of broth and just warm gently on the stove until it thickens, ensuring that it does not boil and split. Add the diced tomato, seasoning to taste with salt, Espelette pepper and lemon juice. Sprinkle with torn parsley and fresh dill and serve immediately. Serves 4