Simply mascerate the best tomatoes in anchovies, capers, olives and basil
Sometimes you want to give the people you love something that feels a little more special, something memorable without being complicated.
Late summer cooking always seems more romantic in theory. We imagine ourselves wandering through markets with a basket in hand, collecting beautiful produce to cook up a feast at home. But when the temperature hits the mid-30s and beyond, the last thing anyone wants is to be stuck in a hot kitchen. Not even the keenest of cooks – I can vouch for that.
Heat has a way of draining our enthusiasm for cooking, and even our appetites become unpredictable. We’re not always sure what we feel like eating, but we still need to eat, and we still want it to taste good. Preferably shared with friends and family, because summer eating always feels best that way.
Even the most passionate cooks have days when a salad is all they can muster – and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. But sometimes you want to give the people you love something that feels a little more special, something memorable without being complicated. That’s where these two recipes come in: a no-cook puttanesca pasta that makes the most of summer’s tomatoes, and an affogato spread that’s playful, indulgent and effortless. It’s cooking that doesn’t work up a sweat.
Yes, the pasta does call for boiling water, but it’s a small concession. At least it doesn’t require turning on the oven, which feels like switching on a heater at this time of year. With the heat already coming from outside, we don’t need it radiating from the kitchen – the heart of the home – too.
You’ll be pleased to read, just as the title promises, that the sauce itself needs no heat – just sweet, juicy tomatoes left to macerate with anchovies, capers, olives and basil, creating a fresh, vibrant sauce that celebrates summer in every bite. Use the best ingredients you can here, as there is nowhere to hide. This is punchy, vibrant and quick – the perfect dish for hot days when the tomatoes are ripe, the basil is fragrant, and anything beyond the bare minimum feels like too much.
This sauce is all about balance and taste. Adjust to your liking. If anchovies aren’t your friends, then this sauce still has plenty of punch without them so leave them out.
No-cook puttanesca
Ingredients
- 2 large tomatoes (I use fat heirloom ones with deep flavour)
- ½ cup (50g) green olives, pitted and ripped
- 1 tablespoon baby capers in vinegar, drained
- 1 garlic clove, grated
- 4-6 good-quality anchovies, cut very finely with a knife then mashed by having the knife run over the top
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 500g cherry tomatoes, quartered
- 20 or so basil leaves
- Pinch of chilli flakes, to your liking
- Salt flakes
- 60ml of the best extra-virgin olive oil you can get your hands on
- 2 tablespoons (40g) butter, salted
- Dried spaghetti for 4
Method
- Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. Season generously with salt. Grate your large tomatoes into a large bowl, capturing all the fresh juice.
- Add the olives, capers, garlic, anchovies, lemon zest (be sure to avoid the bitter white pith), basil leaves, cherry tomatoes, chilli flakes and olive oil. Taste and season with a pinch of salt, then taste again and adjust as needed.
- Leave the sauce to mingle and let the flavours come together while you prepare the pasta.
- Cook the pasta until al dente, about 10 minutes depending on the type.
- Using tongs, lift the pasta directly from the water and drop it into the sauce, or drain it, reserving 1/4 cup of cooking water.
- Add the butter to the sauce and hot pasta. Give everything a good stir and toss for about 30 seconds, until the sauce has come together and coats each strand. Add a splash of cooking water if it needs it.
- Serve in four bowls, top with basil leaves and finish with an extra kiss of olive oil. Serves 4