‘Jaw-dropping’: put this $30 rosé on your list

It’s enough to stop even those who “don’t like rosés” in their tracks.

Picture: Supplied

Charlie Melton and I have a few things in common. We both have discarded Christian names – he was christened Graeme; I, Francis James. Peter Lehmann, who gave Charlie his first job, simply ignored the name on his birth certificate. My parents honoured my grandfather by christening me with his name, but used James from the outset. Both Charlie and I dislike Barossa red wines with alcohol levels exceeding 14.5%, and enjoy the outcome of using a certain amount of whole berry/whole bunch in red wine ferments.

I only used French oak (new or used); he mostly employs French and some American. We agree old vine grenache is a legacy to be preserved.

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He began a road trip around Australia with a mate in an old EH Holden ute that ground to a permanent halt in the Barossa Valley. It was 1983, the grape surplus was cranking up and the pair needed jobs. They were offered two: vineyard pruning, and cellarhand work at Krondorf. They tossed a coin and Charlie won the Krondorf offer. He learnt quickly, buying grapes from old dry-grown bush vines, and soon purchased a 4.5ha grenache vineyard planted in 1947. He also found a way to the Southern Rhône Valley, where he cemented his love of shiraz, grenache and mourvèdre, open fermented and matured in French oak.

I will never forget my amazement when I learnt he was to get married to Virginia Weckert during vintage: he drove to Sydney for the ceremony and straight back to the Barossa Valley without pausing for sleep. The union brought handsome rewards: Virginia raised their three children and runs every aspect of the business. Best of all, daughter Sophie-Claire – who spent five years as assistant winemaker at Thorn-Clarke Wines, and won the Gramp Hardy Smith Memorial Prize as most outstanding student in viticulture and oenology at Adelaide University in 2018 – joined as full-time winemaker on October 4.

2022 Charles Melton RosÉ of Virginia

The vivid magenta hue (in a clear glass bottle) is, to put it mildly, jaw-dropping. But it’s far more than show; it’s wondrously fruity, yet bone dry, its rainbow of small red berries enough to stop those who “don’t like rosés” in their tracks. 13% alc, screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2024, $31.90

2019 Charles Melton La Belle Mère Barossa GSR

No mataro this vintage, so a dash of riesling co-fermented with the grenache and shiraz. The colour isn’t deep, but the riesling has performed like viognier with the still spring day brightness – as are the joyous red fruits and the sprinkle of spices on the medium-bodied palate. 14.5% alc, screwcap. 96 points, drink to 2031, $31.90

2018 Charles Melton Nine Popes

Predominantly a blend ex bush vine grenache and shiraz; matured for 30 months on lees in 70% French/30% American barriques, 25% new. An extraordinarily complex bouquet of saddle leather, spice, glace cherry and plum, the palate following closely behind with a meaty (healthy) caste. 14.5% alc, screwcap. 96 points, drink to 2038, $96.90