InterContinental Hayman Island Resort, Qld review: back with a splash

The Whitsundays resort is better than ever.

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort, Queensland. Picture: Will Salkeld

Astonishingly, it turns out you don’t have to be born into luxury to become used to it. And it happens in the time it takes the young lady who welcomes me aboard Hayman Island’s sparkling catamaran to pour a glass of equally sparkling wine.

An hour and a couple of glasses later, I totter onto the marina dock muttering something unconvincing about sea legs, then gaze around at Hayman, a Gauguin palette of tropical greens and shimmering blues. Five minutes later I’m admiring the biggest swimming pool I’ve ever seen – the equivalent of seven Olympic pools – from the deck outside my room and feeling undeservedly special.

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort, Queensland. Picture: Will Salkeld

The Whitsunday chain of 74 islands running up the Queensland coast hosts a number of holiday destinations, but Hayman Island, the furthest north, has been lauded as the jewel of the Coral Sea since aviation pioneer Reg Ansett opened the resort’s first incarnation in 1950. It prospered through changes of owners and operators; then in March 2017 Hayman was battered so brutally by the 250km/h winds of Cyclone Debbie that some thought it might never recover.

But it’s amazing what fresh eyes and a phenomenal amount of money can do. InterContinental Hotels Group took over the management of the resort, and with the owners spent two years and $135 million reclaiming – indeed eclipsing – its former glory before it reopened last month. Debbie, for all its destruction, had pressed the reset button on Hayman. What followed, in a world that often prefers to celebrate the modest aims of boutique hoteliers, was a lesson in the transformative power of big business.

The original structure remains, but everything that is not new has been, in the words of general manager Mark Eletr, “renovated and reimagined for the modern traveller”. That means five new top-class restaurants and bars; a spa, sauna and fitness centre; and a cool, contemporary redesign of all 166 rooms, featuring elegant new furniture, giant exquisite bathrooms and a bed so big and comfortable it’s difficult to leave. With views of sea or rainforest, and in some cases direct access to the beach or pool, this is luxury accommodation redefined. There is also a super-luxe private beach house comprising three suites, each with its own pool.

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort, Queensland. Picture: Will Salkeld

Every room has been rewired and wifi-enabled, and all controls, from lights to aircon to curtains, are operated by simple panels on the walls. I was childishly fond of the bedside “master off” button, which extinguishes every light in the room at one touch. Sensors activate nightlights if you get up in the dark.

Not that you will want to, all the stress having left your body during the day. “We see a different person after a few days,” says Eletr. “With no traffic, no schedules, the days are open and unscripted. People start sleeping better, they put their phones away, spend time with each other; they take responsibility for their own happiness.”

And if they don’t, there are plenty of staff to assist with happiness generation. Almost a third of the 350 employees – yes, they outnumber the guests – come from Pacific island nations, with their well-earned reputation for hospitality and friendliness.

InterContinental Hayman Island Resort, Queensland. Picture: Will Salkeld

Once you’re relaxed, get active. The island is crisscrossed by hiking trails that lead to secluded bays where you can step off the sand and snorkel over dazzling coral. There are complimentary watercraft – Hobie Cats, windsurfers, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards – and a range of paid activities from dive tours to game fishing, yacht cruises, or perhaps a private charter to a remote beach for a romantic dinner. For those with deeper pockets, helicopter and seaplane trips are only a credit card away.

The best things in life, of course, aren’t always free. Hayman is by no means cheap, but compare its opulence and facilities with some of the big-name hotels in Sydney or Melbourne and it almost looks a bargain. Factor in that extraordinary location and the dedicated people who run it, and it’s a world-beater.

• Perfect for: Couples on a second honeymoon; burned-out execs; undersea explorers.

• Must do: Snorkel or dive over the reef. If you don’t know how or are nervous, experts are on hand to show you the ropes.

• Dining: Five excellent restaurants: fine Italian at Amici; Asian fusion at Bam Bam; modern Australian at Pacific; seafood and salads at poolside Aqua; and classic cocktails and canapes at Bar Fifty.

• Getting there: Virgin and Qantas fly to Hamilton Island from Sydney (2hrs 30mins), Melbourne (3hrs), Cairns (1hr 10mins) and Brisbane (2hrs); then a fast catamaran (1hr), helicopter or seaplane (15mins) takes you to Hayman.

• Bottom line: Luxury, remember. Rooms start at $750 a night, up to $6500 for the three-suite beach house (if you can beat the Hollywood celebs to the booking).

haymanisland.intercontinental.com