How to make surf and turf, Spanish style

This dish of humble beans, salty clams and the warm charm of sobrasada is a vintage combination of earth and sea.

Clams, sobrasada and butter beans. Picture: Nikki To

I never fully appreciated beans until I lived in the north of Spain, where they are a symbol of cultural identity; each area proudly boasts its own unique variety, cultivated in the specific soil and climate of the region. Beans are particularly popular in the Basque Country, and I would often look on with amazement as locals would argue fervently as to whose mother grew the best beans, by what method, and even on which side of the mountain. Such is their ardour that they even have whole festivals dedicated to the humble legume. In the small town of Tolosa time stands still for one week in ­winter to celebrate the alubias de Tolosa. These dark purple, almost black, egg-shaped beans are grown locally, with farmers vying to win the coveted title of “bean of the year”.

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An hour down the road lies Pamplona, which, while best known for its annual running with the bulls, is also renowned for its rich agriculture which includes the young tender beans called pochas, which is similar to a cannellini, and the alubias grandes or large white butter beans. Their unassuming skins envelop a rich earthy flavour and creamy texture when cooked, providing the perfect foundation for a myriad of rich dishes, hearty soups and buttery dips. This dish of humble beans and salty clams, combined with the warm charm of sobrasada, is a one-pan harmonious wonder. The clams, in their briny embrace, impart a sweet sense of the sea to this earthy dish, combining mar y montana (the sea and the mountain) which we know more colloquially as “surf and turf”. Like the fiery personality of its Italian cousin nduja, ­sobrasada looks like a large sausage, but the soft texture inside is more like a meat pâté. Hailing from Mallorca, the ground pork is spiked with paprika and naturally fermented, resulting in a rich crimson hue and inviting spiciness.

Clams are great for a quick and easy meal. Picture: Nikki To

The dish is a one-pan harmonious wonder. Picture: Nikki To

Clams are a favourite for a quick and easy meal; the shells springing open in a matter of minutes, signalling when ready. Surf clams, Sydney cockles, strawberry clams, razor clams, pipis and vongole are often all sold under the name clam, and I choose a different variety depending on what is the best available at that time of year and what dish I am cooking. While I love to grill large clams straight over the fire, I often choose smaller pipis, cockles, or vongole for this dish as they are usually sweeter and more tender.

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RECIPE: Clams, sobrasada & butter beans

Ingredients

• 1kg live clams – vongole or small pipis
• 100ml olive oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 200ml chicken or pork stock
• 1 medium tomato, chopped
• 200g sobrasada or nduja (which is hotter) or the meat removed from the casing of a semi-cured chorizo
• 400g cooked white butter beans (alubias)
• 10g preserved lemon, finely diced
• 100g sourdough bread, lightly toasted and broken into bite-sized pieces
• ½ bunch flat leafed parsley, torn

Method

1. Rinse the clams well in cold water, discarding any that are chipped or damaged in any way. Soak in salted water (2 tablespoons per litre) for 40-45 minutes to purge any remaining impurities. Remove the clams and rinse in fresh water prior to cooking.
2. Take a large pan with a lid, heat the olive oil, add the chopped onions and sweat for 5-6 minutes until golden brown. Add the garlic and bay leaf; stir for about a minute until fragrant. Add the stock and deglaze the pan, adding the chopped tomato, the sobrasada and the butter beans. Simmer for 8-10 minutes. Arrange the clams on top, cover with a lid, and simmer for 4-5 minutes until the clams open, discarding any which remain closed. Add the preserved lemon, bread and parsley, folding through gently to allow the flavours to combine. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and serve immediately. Serves 4