Lennox Hastie’s Spanish tortilla recipe: Why Eggs are my favourite food

Eggs are a meal in themselves or the foundation of countless creations. This Spanish tortilla recipe is one of my favourites.

Spanish tortilla. Picture: Nikki To

When asked what my favourite food is, I invariably reply eggs. I eat at least one every day, cooked any number of ways. We keep a few chickens in our backyard, which makes eating eggs even more special, and each chicken is a different breed that produces a slightly different egg (one of them is blue).

Eggs are the unsung heroes of the kitchen, a meal in themselves whether you like them boiled, poached, scrambled or fried, but also the foundation of countless creations from sauces to soufflés, crepes to cakes, even pasta. Eggs have been celebrated for their simplicity and versatility by every cuisine around the world, but it was the French who elevated the egg into an art form.

When I started culinary school at Westminster College in 1997 I was introduced to Mr Salt, one of the senior lecturers, who was quite the character and a magician when it came to eggs. Despite his short stature, he wore a tall toque whose 100 pleats each represented a way to cook an egg. While many of these egg recipes were variations on a theme, they demonstrated a devotion to the craft, creating a ­dizzying array of dishes from the most basic ingredients. Thanks to Mr Salt the Westminster kitchen had its own egg section, where I was shown the delicate balance of heat and timing required to achieve the perfect poach or creamy custard and to recognise the difference between en meurette (poached in red wine) and en cocotte (baked with cream).

Lennox Hastie’s Spanish tortilla. Picture: Nikki To

While the egg is deceptively simple, it is ­sensitive, transforming when heated or agitated. It is important to know when to use the yolk, the white, or both together. An egg white is basically water and albumin, a protein that can set firm when heated or aerated when whisked. The yolk is a much ­richer version of the white with a high concentration of fat. An egg white will set at 60C; a yolk will not harden until it reaches 68C.

Two of my favourite ways to cook eggs are a tortilla and a ­tocino, which you can find here. As with any omelette, the tortilla is all about the quality of the ingredients and the technique, but it can create a ­delicious meal for breakfast, lunch or dinner, which is why it can be found in bars all over Spain at any time of the day. I like to use large white onions; the sweetness of the caramelised onions balances well with the gelatinous salted cod (bacalao) and the earthiness of the potatoes. If you are unable to source salt cod (or don’t have the time to soak it), try using smoked trout or smoked eel which can be flaked and added to the mix without the need for cooking, or just enjoy the onion and potato with the eggs on its own. For a light supper, I like to serve this with a simple salad or some grilled peppers.

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RECIPE: Tortilla

Ingredients

• 300g finely sliced white onions
• 350g waxy potatoes, peeled, sliced, rinsed in cold water, and drained
• 250ml olive oil
• 7 free range eggs
• 100g salted cod or other salted fish (optional)
• 1 clove garlic finely sliced
• 1 sprig thyme
• 1 strip lemon peel, pith removed

Method

1. Soak salt cod in water overnight to remove excess salt, changing the water at least once. Drain and rinse cod under cold running water.
2. Heat 200ml olive oil; add the garlic, thyme and lemon peel. Add the salt cod and poach gently for 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Allow to cool slightly before removing the cod. Remove any residual bones or skin; use the back of a fork to break the cod fillet into flakes. Strain the oil and reserve for the potatoes.
3. Heat 35ml olive oil in a pan, add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt and cook them on medium-high heat for about 10 minutes until they’re soft and slightly caramelised. Add the potatoes and the reserved oil (from the salt cod) to the pan and cook for a further 10-12 minutes until tender. Be careful not to overcook the potatoes. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before draining the excess oil.
4. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and stir in the potato, onion and salt cod flakes. Allow to sit for about 5 minutes to allow the flavours to combine, adjusting the seasoning as required.
5. In a medium frypan (18cm-20cm), heat 15ml of olive oil and add the egg mixture to the pan. Cook on high heat for 1 minute, moving the mix from the outside to the inside with a spatula. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for about 5 minutes until it’s almost set but still a bit runny in the middle. Place a plate larger than the size of the pan over the tortilla and carefully flip the omelette onto the plate so the cooked side of the omelette is facing up.
6. Putting a little oil in the pan, use the plate to gently slide the omelette back into the pan. Use the spatula to press the edges of the omelette in and under while the underside sets gently. Cook for a further minute until the exterior of the tortilla is gently springy to the touch while remaining soft and unctuous in the middle. Place a plate larger than the size of the pan over the tortilla and flip onto the plate. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before cutting and serving. Serves 3-4