NewsBite

Roaring Barossa reds spark passion from Elderton, Thorn-Clarke, RedHeads and Irvine

My path from mere wine drinker to mega enthusiast came in the mid-1990s, with a particular red lighting my way.

Your Barossa adventure starts here.
Your Barossa adventure starts here.

Is there a special wine in your life? One that made you fall in love with the world of wine; that showed you wine was more than just a drink; that made you want to learn more, taste more, experience more?

My path from mere wine drinker to enthusiast came in the mid-1990s, with the critical moment sparked by a particular Barossa shiraz. Until then, I had dabbled with wine – mainly in my mid-20s in the hope of conjuring up some sort of sophisticated image at backyard barbecues. (Nottage Hill shiraz, at about $8 a bottle, was a regular go-to.)

The conversion came via my uncle, a man with a far bigger wine budget than me and, according to him, Queensland’s biggest private buyer of Elderton’s Barossa wines. The Barossa was experiencing a nice run of vintages – with 1991, 1996 and 1998 still regarded as standouts – and, to my great fortune, I happened to be in my uncle’s home bar when he opened a 1991 Elderton Command.

I hadn’t come across such velvety, luscious, full-flavoured red wines on the lower shelves at my local bottle shop. Damn, I had no idea such tastes even existed! And as I scaled back down from the dizzy heights of Command to Elderton’s estate-level reds, I could trace the aromas and flavours and started to understand the nuances between Barossan reds. The adventure of a lifetime had begun.

So it comes as a great delight to include the excellent Elderton East Wing Shiraz in The Australian Wine Club’s line-up of classic Barossa reds this week.

As Elderton co-managing director Allister Ashmead says: “A good Barossa shiraz should give you a cuddle, make you feel warm and content.” Hear, hear.

Whether you’re searching for that special wine or just love good old-fashioned Barossa reds at good old-fashioned prices, here are four beauties.

Elderton East Wing Barossa Shiraz 2020

Neil and Lorraine Ashmead’s wine adventure began in the early ’80s when Barossa growers were being paid by the government to pull out vines because of a grape glut. While they were purchasing a family home, the agent threw in as a bonus a derelict shiraz and cabernet vineyard planted in 1894 by Samuel Elderton Tolley. The Ashmeads, with young sons Cameron and Allister, restored the vineyard and produced their first vintage in 1982. In little more than a decade, Elderton’s cabernet had won the 1993 Jimmy Watson Trophy for Australia’s best one or two-year-old dry red. The Elderton East Wing Shiraz is drawn from estate vineyards across the Barossa Valley. You’ll find classic Barossa aromas of plums and vanilla, leading to lovely soft fruit flavours of dark cherries, mulberries and bitter chocolate. Created to be enjoyed now but will cellar well for a decade. 15% alc. RRP $44.

SPECIALS $23.99 a bottle in any dozen; $21.99 in Barossa dozen.

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017

A beautifully balanced, elegant shiraz that screams quality. Complex nose of black fruits, plum and cedar box, with ripe black fruits and chocolate flavours flowing. Nice tannin structure. The Thorn-Clarke family is one of the Barossa’s outstanding growers and winemakers, with vineyards planted in four distinct microclimates in the Barossa and Eden valleys. The 2017 Shotfire scored 95 points from James Halliday and the red star for exceptional value. 14.5% alc. RRP $35 a bottle.

SPECIALS $24.99 a bottle in any dozen; $21.99 in Barossa dozen.

RedHeads Princess of Thieves Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2020

 
 

From a winery that takes its green credentials seriously: organically certified; 97 per cent powered by self-generated and stored renewable energy; a water conserver par excellence. And the wine is an absolute knockout. The Princess of Thieves reminds me why I love the complexities of well-made GSMs, especially in autumn. Cherry-chocolate aromas draw you in, followed by strawberry, anise and gentle spice. Waves of plum and cherry flavours follow, with hints of black pepper, spicy richness. 14.5% alc. RRP $35 a bottle.

SPECIALS $26.99 a bottle in any dozen; $21.99 in Barossa dozen.

Irvine Estate Ruth’s Block Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020

From Irvine’s Ruth’s Block vineyard in Ebenezer. Enticing forest berry aromas, with a hint of milk chocolate and lavender. Ripe dark fruits on the palate with a lift of acidity on the finish. Ebenezer wines are renowned for the velvety tannins experienced here. I’m thinking roast beef on a rainy night. 14.5% alc. RRP $44 a bottle.

SPECIALS $23.99 a bottle in any dozen; $21.99 in Barossa dozen.

SPECIAL BAROSSA DOZENThree bottles of each wine for $21.99 a bottle.

Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.

John Lehmann
John LehmannManaging Director - The Australian and News Prestige Network

John Lehmann is Managing Director of The Australian, the News Prestige Network and NSW mastheads including The Daily and Sunday Telegraphs. He was Editor of The Australian for four years, leading the masthead to two Newspaper of Year Awards and record audience growth. John believes that world-class storytelling and riveting content is the key to commercial success. Before taking on executive roles, he worked as an editor and reporter in Australia and the United States for 25 years, covering business, media, politics and crime. At the New York Post, he reported extensively on the September 11 terror attacks and hunt for Osama bin Laden. John is a former Editor at Large of The Daily Telegraph, where he helped create major advocacy campaigns including the Bradfield Oration, and has covered Olympic Games in the United States, Russia and Sydney. He also once ran a liquor distribution business and writes a weekly column for The Australian Wine Club, where he moonlights as Cellar Director.

Add your comment to this story

To join the conversation, please Don't have an account? Register

Join the conversation, you are commenting as Logout

Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/food-drink/roaring-barossa-reds-spark-passion-from-elderton-thornclarke-redheads-and-irvine/news-story/5dbb6f8956271de90279e5d727330824