Lighter & brighter: wines on the rise from RedHeads, Coriole, Coppabella and Kilikanoon
The prices of pinot noir and grenache are rising strongly as drinkers favour fresh, soft styles. Here’s five wines that walk on the light side.
The fortunes of lighter, brighter reds are on the rise.
Do you find yourself enjoying a little more pinot noir and grenache and drinking a touch less shiraz and cabernet? If you are, you’re not alone.
The Australian Wine Club this week offers a compelling selection of lighter reds – a cool-climate pinot noir from one of the highest vineyard sites in Australia, two high-calibre grenaches, a cherry- bomb sangiovese and a bonus Beaujolais.
“These lighter styles – varieties like pinot, grenache, barbera, gamay – are going gangbusters,’’ says RedHeads chief winemaker Alex Trescowthick. “The nice fruit on the nose, fresh flavours and softer style is really appealing.”
While shiraz and cabernet are still the heavyweights of the Australian wine crush each vintage, the prices of pinot noir and grenache grapes are rising strongly. Try these stats from the Wine Australia vintage survey: the average value per tonne of pinot noir in 2022 was $1200 (a 40 per cent increase since 2015), while grenache soared to $1319 a tonne (an 83 per cent increase). Meanwhile, shiraz at $714 a tonne has grown in value by 19 per cent since 2015 and cabernet at $686 has increased by 22 per cent.
As Alex says, winemakers are taking note and vineyard owners are planting more of these lighter styles. “Most wines are consumed within 24 hours of purchase from a bottle shop and people love that these wines are so soft to enjoy straight away,’’ he says.
While pinot has been soaring in popularity for years, grenache – among the first varieties planted in Australia in the mid-1800s – is the hot new thing. The average price paid for a bottle of Australian grenache has more than doubled over the past two years.
“Grenache is really a richer, riper version of pinot,’’ says Alex. “And they are so well suited to Australia’s warm climate. They’re a hardy variety and don’t need much water. Many of the older vines are dry grown.”
So take a walk on the light side. Here’s five reasons you won’t be disappointed.
RedHeads Princess of Thieves GSM 2020
Sourced from Barossa vines of more than 100 years old. Grenache (87 per cent of the blend) is the driving force, with 7 per cent shiraz and 6 per cent mataro in the backseat. It’s no surprise classic grenache aromas of bright cherries, raspberries and strawberries dominate. Waves of cherry and plum flavours, with hints of Turkish delight and gentle spice. Mid-weight with softly woven tannins. A standout GSM. 94 points and top in category, Winestate Magazine. A host of Golds, including Grand Gold, Asia Wine Trophy. 14.5 per cent alc; RRP $35 a bottle.
SPECIALS $26.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $22.99 a bottle in Light Reds dozen
Coppabella of Tumbarumba Pinot Noir Single Vineyard 2021
From the foothills of the Snowy Mountains comes a cool-climate pinot, with lively aromas of tart raspberries, cherries and cranberries. A light international style with layers of fresh fruit and savouriness. The wine’s high natural acidity would prove a nice foil for a confit duck. Coppabella is rated five stars by James Halliday and runs Tumbarumba’s second largest vineyard which, in the past, has supplied chardonnay for Penfolds Yattarna. Terrific value. 13 per cent alc; RRP $27
SPECIALS 21.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $22.99 a bottle in Light Reds dozen
Coriole McLaren Vale Sangiovese 2021
The pioneers of Australian sangiovese have delivered again. The 2021 entices with sweet cherries, vanilla and thyme on the nose, leading to a palate infused with cherry and raspberry flavours. Beautifully balanced, with savoury notes emerging as you linger. Medium-bodied; fine but firm tannins give the palate great length. A sangiovese to fall in love with, from some of the oldest sangiovese vines in Australia. Mushroom risotto an obvious pairing. 14.4 per cent alc; RRP $28
SPECIALS $23.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $22.99 a bottle in Light Reds dozen
Kilikanoon Prodigal Clare Valley Grenache 2018
Grenache gets serious here: raspberry tarts, red licorice, star anise, smoky notes and spice. Layers of dark chocolate and blackberries with a dash of sarsaparilla in the background. Fine tannins and bright acidity. From Clare’s sensational 2018 vintage. Superb value in special dozen. 93 points from Team Halliday. 14.5 per cent alc. RRP $40
SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $22.99 a bottle in Light Reds dozen
LIGHT REDS DOZEN
Three bottles of each wine above for $22.99 a bottle
Maison Dominique Piron Fleurie 2020
A cracking example of the new wave Beaujolais exciting French sommeliers. This is deep, complex and soft gamay – a world away from the simple, fun-in-the-sun style we normally associate with Beaujolais. Aromas of fresh cherries and crushed flower petals flow to a spectrum of juicy flavours supported by soft, rounded tannins towards a savoury finish. Crafted by Dominique Piron, a 14th-generation winemaker whose estate was founded during the reign of Louis XIII in the appellation of Fleurie. The wines of Fleurie are considered among the prettiest and most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Roll out the pate and crusty bread. 14 per cent alc. RRP $35
SPECIALS $28.99 in straight dozen; $22.99 a bottle in 15-bottle deal
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaite’s Wine People.
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