China’s loss our gain: high-quality reds offered from Thorn-Clarke, Welland, Schild Estate, Kensington and Kilikanoon

These high-quality Australian reds should have been the toast of China. Instead they’re being offered locally at exceptionally low prices.

The Australian Wine Club this week presents a line-up of premium reds, including a double gold-medal winner, that should have been the toast of China.

China’s ban on Australian wine has smashed a billion-dollar hole in our winemakers’ operations.

It has hurt hundreds of winemaking families who had worked for years building up good export markets in China. They are now battling it out to sell the wine that was intended for China in Australia – at sharply discounted prices to move through the over-supply.

The Australian Wine Club this week presents a line-up of premium reds, including a double gold-medal winner, that should have been the toast of China.

China’s loss is obviously our gain as wine lovers, with exceptional deals on offer. But do spare a thought for those who have been caught up in this geo-political spat through no fault of their own. Among those impacted are producers like Ben and Madeleine Chapman, and their three children, who started Welland Wines five years ago when they purchased an historic Barossa vineyard that was in danger of being sub-divided for housing blocks.

The 1.7ha Welland vineyard, the centrepiece of their wine business, was planted in 1923 by the Kriegs, one of the Barossa’s founding families.

Situated on red clay soils on the fringe of Nuriootpa, the shiraz vineyard was regarded by locals as a consistent producer of excellent fruit which was supplied to celebrated Barossa wineries such as Penfolds and Peter Lehmann.

Ben and Madeleine joined with friends to save the old vines from the bulldozer and have invested in resurrecting the vineyard, installing new irrigation systems and trellising and planting new vines taken from cuttings of the old material.

It’s a labour of love but as Ben says, the effort has been worth it. “Similar to restoring old cars or houses, it is easier and more economical to start again by buying a new car or house — but they will never have the character or storied past of a restoration,’’ he says.

Over the past few years, the Welland business has grown steadily, with 50 per cent of its wine being sold in China before trade ground to a halt. “No doubt it’s a tough time for the industry,’’ says Ben, who has been working in the wine game for 20 years, including as general manager at Thorn-Clarke Wines.

Australia’s wine exports to China plummeted from $1011 million in 2020 to a paltry $29.5 million last year but like most wine producers, Ben and Madeleine are working hard to find new customers in places like the United States, Singapore, New Zealand and, of course, here in Australia.

“The industry has had plenty of ups and downs over the years and this is another one but good wine will always find a home,” Ben says.

The Welland brand is based on traditional varieties like shiraz and cabernet: rich, generous, balanced wines that are approachable now but will reward cellaring.

So if you’re looking for good winter reds, you’ll find a great selection below at special one-off prices. Not only will you be scoring an excellent deal, you’ll be helping out Australian wine families and the thousands of locals employed in this vibrant industry.

Welland Valley & Valley Barossa and Eden Valley Shiraz 2019

This gold-medal winner offers rich plum and blueberry flavours, with dark chocolate and mocha notes in the background. The Barossa floor fruit provides the depth of flavour while the higher altitude Eden fruit brings natural acid and good structure. Matured in American oak for 12 months. Won Gold in the China Wine & Spirits Awards last year and Double Gold this year at the Sakura Japan Woman’s Wine Awards. 94 points from Wine Orbit. 14.5% alc; RRP $30 a bottle

SPECIALS $25.50 a bottle in straight dozen; $19.99 a bottle in mixed dozen deal

Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2019

Schild Estate is home to the Moorooroo shiraz vines, planted by Ann Jacobs in 1847 and believed to be among the world’s oldest vines still producing fruit. The Schild family faced tragedy soon after moving to the Barossa in the early 1950s when patriarch Ben Schild died suddenly, thrusting his 16-year-old son Ed into the driver’s seat of their business. Ed is still at the wheel, along with his wife Lorraine, and their four children and seven grandchildren. This 2019 shiraz, named in Ben’s honour, delivers mouth-filling flavours of blood plums, blackcurrant and chocolate bullets, with a touch of sweet aniseed in the background. Serious but approachable. 93 points from Huon Hooke’s The Real Review. 14% alc; RRP $40 a bottle

SPECIALS $34 a bottle in straight dozen; $19.99 a bottle in mixed dozen deal

Kensington Wines King Valley Shiraz 2018

Bigger, richer style, with concentrated flavours of blackberries, black cherries and mulberries, rounded out with savoury notes of dried herbs, olives and black pepper and a tiny hint of menthol. The fruit was sourced from vines with an average age of 30 years, grown on a north-facing slope in Victoria’s King Valley. Perfect with butterfly roasted lamb. 91pts from Team Halliday. 14.5% alc; RRP $58 a bottle

SPECIALS $44.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $19.99 a bottle in mixed dozen deal

 

Thorn-Clarke Bonafide S.V. Barossa Graciano Shiraz 2019

From one of the Barossa’s leading family-owned wineries comes this cheeky grenache shiraz blend, filled with Black Doris plum flavours and violet, almond and dark chocolate notes. Juicy and silky, with refreshing acidity and fine-grained tannins leading to a long finish. Thorn-Clarke was established by David and Cheryl Clarke (nee Thorn), bringing together two families with wine running through their veins. Now one of the largest family-owned estate-based businesses in the Barossa, with a succession of trophy and gold medal–winning wines testifying to their winemaking skills. 13.5% alc; RRP $39.99 a bottle

SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in straight dozen; $19.99 a bottle in mixed dozen deal

BONUS DEAL Add three bottles of Kilikanoon Morrison Clare Valley Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2018(Gold, Decanter World Wine Awards; RRP $45) for $22.99 a bottle across the 15 bottles.

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals only available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine.