Hungerford Hill delights with wine made from pinot meunier
If you love pinot noir, here’s a mystery wine you’re almost certain to enjoy. Get ready for silky smooth red fruit flavours, earthy savouriness and hints of spice.
The chances are you’ve tasted this grape many times but probably not by itself.
It’s called pinot meunier and it is commonly used in champagne and other sparkling wines to complement the traditional combination of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.
Just a handful of producers in Australia release wines made from pinot meunier as single varietals and the results can be stunning, especially for those of us who love pinot noir.
The Australian Wine Club’s tasting panel was blown away last week with the surprising delights of a Hungerford Hill pinot meunier grown in the cool climate of Tumbarumba in NSW and harvested during the 2022 vintage.
We’re not alone: other wine reviewers also are making a fuss, including the Halliday Wine Companion, which handed out a 95-point, gold-medal rating.
Our wine club has included this beguiling wine in a special mixed dozen from Hungerford Hill, a Hunter Valley institution owned by Sam and Christie Arnaout.
Sam Arnaout, the son of refugees from Lebanon’s civil war, started life as a panel beater but made a fortune in pubs and property, discovering the joys of wine along the way.
At its best, pinot meunier creates a light to medium-bodied wine, packed with silky smooth red fruit flavours, earthy savouriness and hints of spice.
Hungerford Hill chief winemaker Bryan Currie has been making small quantities of pinot meunier for almost a decade, using fruit that was planted on the western slopes of the Snowy Mountains at Tumbarumba to be used in sparkling wines.
“Those vines are now around 40 years old and they do make a beautifully fragrant wine – raspberry and strawberry characters come through,” Currie says. “It is very, very closely related to pinot noir but tends to be a little bit fruitier. It’s becoming borderline trendy now as people get more interested in light-bodied reds.”
Hungerford Hill normally makes an average of 300 dozen from its pinot meunier vineyard but this year sourced additional fruit from other Tumbarumba producers. “We’ll have a grand total of 500 dozen – still very small and we will have no trouble selling it,” Currie says. “When people try it, they absolutely love it.”
Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Pinot Meunier 2022
Vibrant wild strawberry and vanilla aromas with purple flowers and a hint of melted butter creaminess to boot. Pristine red fruits on the palate (strawberry, raspberry and pomegranate), complemented by an earthy, forest-floor savouriness. Fine tannin profile, wonderful length. Elegance personified. 95 points from Halliday Wine Companion. 13.5% alc; RRP $50 a bottle.
SPECIALS $45 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Pinot Noir 2022
Red cherry and raspberry aromas lift from the glass, with a whiff of sweet baking spice following through. Raspberry flavours flow, with blackberry notes and a touch of vanilla and forest-floor earthiness mingling with toasty oak. Bright acidity and silky tannin structure. Opens up gracefully with time in the glass and finishes long. 90 points from Halliday Wine Companion. 13.5% alc; RRP $50 a bottle.
SPECIALS $45 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
Hungerford Hill Hilltops Tempranillo Graciano 2021
Blend of 70 per cent-30 per cent tempranillo-graciano that weaves together juicy fruits and spice in a Spanish-influenced fusion. Plums and cherries mingle with bramble, white pepper and clove. Cocoa, vanilla and earthy notes in the background. Raring to go. Trophy and 96 points at NSW Small Winemakers Wine Show. 14% alc; RRP $45 a bottle.
SPECIALS $38.99 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
Hungerford Hill Dalwood Vineyard Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2022
From the oldest continually operating vineyard in Australia, established on the banks of the Hunter River in 1828, comes this crisp chardonnay featuring aromas of white peach, nectarine, green pepper and vanilla, opening the door to grapefruit, lemon and stonefruit flavours and toffee notes. Plenty of power but light on its feet. 92 points from The Real Review. 12.5% alc; RRP $40 a bottle.
SPECIALS $29.99 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
Hungerford Hill Hunter Valley Semillon 2021
Also from the Dalwood vineyard. Aromas of lemon, lime, tonic and thyme lead to a citrus-loaded palate, with a focused line of minerality drawing you to a burst of natural acid on the finish. A crisp Hunter classic. Red star for exceptional value from Halliday Wine Companion. 11.5% alc; RRP $27 a bottle.
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
Hungerford Hill Classic Hilltops Pinot Grigio 2022
Expressive green apple, pear and honeysuckle scents with a hint of musk. Green apple and citrus flavours race to a clean zesty finish. Super refreshing. 12.5% alc; $27 a bottle.
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in any dozen; $29.99 a bottle in Hungerford dozen.
HUNGERFORD HILL DOZENTwo bottles of each wine above for $29.99 a bottle. SAVE $118 a dozen.
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm AEST. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
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