Coronavirus: Pull your head in: restaurateur slaps down critics

While most in the hospitality industry say maximums allowed under distancing rules don’t make economic sense, some are giving it a go.

‘If you’re going to keep shouting at the government “You’re getting it wrong”, we will lose the option,’ says Fix Wine owner Stuart Knox. Picture: Adam Yip

When the curtains go up on those few Sydney restaurants prepared to give it a go on Friday night under the NSW government’s relaxed­ lockdown rules, don’t go looking for a table at Elizabeth Street’s Fix Wine in the CBD.

“We’re fully booked,” says Stuart­ Knox, the wine bar turned restaurant’s jovial owner. “Ten people, every 90 minutes.”

While most in the hospitality industry have deemed the maximum numbers allowed under the distancing rules — which vary from state to state — simply insufficient to make economic sense, a determined group is giving it a go. And telling the naysayers, politely, to shut up.

“For me, 10 people is not pointless,” said Knox yesterday, referring to industry banter that has talked down the small maximum patronage at any one time as a waste of time and money.

“I’ve spent my last 14 years trying­ to compete with 100+ seat restaurants in Sydney’s CBD. Most of them have pokies to back them and those that don’t are part of big groups.

“There’s a few of us that have their whole lives on the line, so if you can, please pull your head in.”

Knox, whose little wine bar will be just an a la carte, table-service restaurant for the foreseeable futur­e under the Berejiklian government’s current guidelines, said the industry should be grateful some businesses could work with the 10 “rather than telling the governme­nt they f..ked up.”

The JobKeeper scheme and a flexible landlord meant he wouldn’t lose money by opening on the limited basis, Knox said.

“I’m frustrated,” said the rest­aurateur with nine staff eligible for JobKeeper. “I get the point for the bigger venues that 10 isn’t practical … I understand their point of view, (but) if you’re going to keep shouting at the government ‘You’re getting it wrong’, we will lose the option. That’s what happened­ in Victoria.”

Victoria is the only state that has not announced any easing of the laws on sit-down dining. Western Australia has gone the furthest, allowing a maximum of 20 patrons in restaurants, with appropriate social distancing and other guidelines, from Monday. Other states and territories will reopen under a cocktail of indoor/outdoors and alcohol-restricted rules.

While some restaurants choosing to seat a restricted number, such as Fix, will operate in a typical manner, with bookings and walk-ins if possible and an a la carte menu, others in Sydney, such as Luke’s Kitchen in Waterloo and The Corner House Bondi, have opted to offer tables of 10 as private dining experiences, an effective “takeover” with set menus at fixed prices.

Most restaurants choosing to reopen have traded through the lockdown with takeaway, home delivery or both.

They are not starting up from scratch.

“We’re already here doing takeaway and staying open,” said Knox, as he readied himself for trade on Friday, for the first time in months being able to recommend and pour a glass of wine for a seated customer dining in.

“I’m adding the option of 10 guests being able to sit down … Those loud voices saying it’s no good? Don’t f..k it up for me please. Any time you speak loudly, you have to think about the repercussions … It will be great to throw the doors open.”