Enrique Olvera’s Cosme in Manhattan: Mexican delight

Cosme, New York, is one of the most interesting, delicious, entertaining and new restaurant experiences of my life.

Cosme is energetic but not rowdy, informal yet hospitable.

Cultural cringe can play havoc with the palate. For the Australian abroad, making the most of rare and expensive opportunities, emotional and financial investment in the Big Meal at the Big Restaurant can taint perceptions. Few have it within us to come home and tell friends that Noma/The Fat Duck/Mugaritz fell a little flat and cost $500 per head.

No, we prefer to say: “We went to El Celler de Can Roca when we were in Spain. Amazing.”

In fact, when last in Spain, I went to Asador ­Etxebarri to fulfil a long-held dream. It was as boring as bat droppings. There, I’ve said it.

However, last time I went to New York, in about 2005, Per Se was the target, and I’m still paying the credit card bill. So this time, older and maybe wiser, I chose Mexican chef Enrique Olvera’s Cosme, having read about it last year with fidgeting excitement and longing for a trip to the Big Apple. Isn’t it wonderful when something exceeds already high expectations?

Fish a la talla at New York’s Cosme restaurant, where Enrique Olvera reimagines Mexican cuisine.

The pitch: Mexican flavours, and concepts, presented in a new way that may just redefine your margarita-and-taco image of Mexican cuisine. And all in a contemporary restaurant environment that is ­energetic but not rowdy, informal yet incredibly service-oriented.

The reality: Cosme can be summed up by a killer cocktail they call the Expat Martini: Perry’s Tot New York-distilled gin, coriander-­infused Dol­in dry vermouth, Lillet Blanc and a garnish of house-­pickled tomatillo. A few of these and I’d be homesick for Oaxaca too.

Cosme is louche, social, big and moody, and from the moment you arrive until stumbling out the door, you’ll be taken care of. The staff are amazing, and earn every cent of their tip (I felt 20 per cent was right). I had anticipated food, booze and ­service; the fun of eating at Cosme was a massive bonus.

The cuisine: A vibrant, modern interpretation of Mexican flavours that is neither fussy nor pretentious. The impact on the palate is immediate; alive, not subtle. ­Seafood and vegetable dishes present as kind-of-salads, assemb­lages. Sauces and dressings exhibit an intensity that screams of long and careful preparation, with­ ­myriad ingredients, to achieve such layers of flavour. Brightness, smoke, spice, heat … But all through a chef’s unique prism.

Enmoladas - one of the house highlights.

Highlights: Cosme’s version of aguachile, with limey octopus and sliced raw scallop, an intoxicating squid ink sauce/broth, fresh green chilli, celery and charred pieces of avocado is haunting. Enmoladas — a small corn enchilada served with a mole of profound flavour depth — comes with dried ricotta, creme fraiche and hoja santa. And the most fragrant, house-made tortillas come with an almost Thai dish of yellow mole, extraordinary spiced and fried soft-shelled crab, shredded green papaya and green chilli. And then there’s the signature dessert, a cowpat of meringue made with burned and pulverised corn husk — cracked — to reveal a filling of sweetened corn mousse.

The damage: Starters around US$26, mains US$35, desserts US$14.

In summary: Expectations? Left far, far behind. One of the most interesting, delicious, entertaining and new restaurant experiences of my life.

More at: cosmenyc.com