Serenity reigns at Bali’s latest luxury resort
Inspired by the idea of Javanese-Hindu water palace, with an overlay of tropical modernism, this new retreat is sheer luxury.
Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts is an Emirati company mostly known for the opulence and size of its properties in Dubai and across neighbouring destinations such as Abu Dhabi, Kuwait, Bahrain and Oman. If just one of those were to encapsulate the brand’s “Arabian luxe” style and dramatic architecture, it would be the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab astride a man-made island on the Persian Gulf in Dubai. It’s perhaps the most photographed contemporary hotel on Earth.
Less widely known is that Jumeirah has properties in Capri, London, Mallorca, The Maldives and China, and has made its foray into Southeast Asia. Opened in the middle of last year and tucked away in the heights of Pecatu on the Bukit peninsula at Bali’s southwest tip, Jumeirah Bali covers a lavish 11ha. Electric carts tootle guests around immaculately landscaped grounds threaded with bougainvillea, sacred bodhi trees and bright hibiscus. The layout is based on “a Javanese-Hindu water palace” during the golden age of Indonesia’s revered pre-Islamic Majapahit empire, founded in the 13th century.
Low-rise architecture and design highlights across the estate feature a dazzling mix of white columns, miles of marble, covered walkways, grand staircases, archways, strategically placed fishponds and trickling water features. Jean-Michel Gathy of award-winning hospitality and design consultancy Denniston International, based in Kuala Lumpur, conceived the interior design of this sanctuary-like estate, citing “tropical modernism” as one influence, but history plays a part, too. “The identity we have given to this project is a little bit different from most hotels in Bali,” he says.
“We have introduced an Indonesian and Dutch-inspired architectural interior (and a) European influence (that) relates to the colonial times of Central Java ... We have humbly slipped ourselves in.”
Martin Grounds from Grounds Kent Architects in Perth led the architectural concept and the now mature tropical gardens were designed well before the resort opened by Bali-based Australian landscaper Made Wijaya (Michael White), who died in 2016.
The resort is some distance from the holiday island’s best-known temples and tourist sites, so there’s less pressure to get out and about, which can make for a truly relaxing break. But I would recommend checking with the concierge desk about the kecak monkey dance performances held in a clifftop amphitheatre at nearby Uluwatu. These evening events are often overcrowded and not to everyone’s taste, but the energy of the performers is mesmerising.
On a more relaxing level, just strolling the Jumeirah Bali estate is entertaining. Be sure to note the clear references to local culture in wall carvings and friezes, images of mythical creatures, decorative door frames and woven accessories. It’s not a faux outpost of Dubai but a resort that feels earthed and respectful of its context. The staff, without exception, are helpful, polite and intuitive.
All the accommodation is in one or two-bedroom walled villas arranged in serried lines across the slopes; there are 123 in total and these spacious freestanding habitats are divided into respective aspects, from garden enclosures to those with ocean views and full-on panoramas, and all come with private pools. Mine is a premier garden style with well-tended plantings that include thriving water species, an outdoor shower, deckchairs by the smallish, but immaculate, turquoise-tiled pool, and extras such as beach bag, hat and sandals. The guest activities list suggests I could “recharge with a resident master yogi” but the cushioned daybed in the classic high-roofed Indonesian pendopo pavilion by the pool wins out for a spot of serious holiday lolling. The generously sized accommodation, with tiled floors, high pavilion ceilings and fans (plus airconditioning), covers sleeping and living spaces decked out in a creamy and pale grey palette and both areas have giant TVs with cable channels.
The freestanding egg-shaped bathtub at first appears to be oddly on display in the open-plan configuration, until I realise sliding panels afford privacy. The rate comes with breakfast, 24-hour butler service, canapes with nightly turndown service and fast wi-fi.
Stepping out? First, there’s the lure of Talise Spa, complete with a traditional Turkish hammam, Vichy shower, hydrotherapy, serene salons, wellness consultants expert in disciplines such as tai chi and acupuncture, a thoughtfully composed treatment list that includes pregnancy massages, and therapists who work magic on jet-lagged neck and shoulders. The gym has all the latest gear and activities staff will happily arrange rounds at the nearby 18-hole New Kuta golf course.
Across the gleaming, low-rise spread, the layout feels leisurely and tropical. The scale is no mini-Dubai, and there’s absolutely no chance of confusing the sandy shores of Bali with the parched deserts of the UAE. The resort is set above Dreamland (aka New Kuta) Beach, reached by a set of steps from the main pool, and a longtime favourite with surfers.
I like, too, that families are welcome here and there’s a program of children’s club and activities, junior meals on most menus and flexibility in villas for cots and extra bedding. And while it might sound like a stretch, I don’t believe I’ve dined quite as well anywhere in Bali.
The all-day Segaran Dining Terrace, a lovely, airy poolside venue with indoor and outdoor seating, is a great choice for all meals. There’s buffet and a la carte for breakfast, including eggs Benedict dotted with artistic patterns of herbs and micro-flowers, and whole green coconuts stabbed with a straw and imprinted with the resort logo. At lunch or dinner, try its Spirit & Taste of Bali menu for light, spicy fare. Afternoon tea at Maja Lounge is a meal in itself, served from a tall, three-tiered stand of mixed sandwiches, cakes and warm scones with accompaniments.
For fine dining, and the heady prospect of an underground wine cellar accessible via a glass elevator, head to Akasa, positioned high for brilliant views and set with sofas and fire pits on its terrace and cushioned seating in the more formal indoor section.
This exceptional restaurant has a flame-grilled Asian seafood emphasis and a choice of peppercorns, from Kampot and Szechuan to slightly sweet white Malabar, to perk-up prime cuts of meat, including lamb racks. Kick off with Jimbaran prawn salad with smoked pomelo, papaya, red chilli, mint and tamarind. Follow with sea bass in banana leaf with lemongrass, coconut and lime; and finish with a delicately flavoured pandan creme brulee. Executive chef Vincent Leroux may pop by and greet diners as the sea deepens to gold and bronze. Time to toast the sunset.
Jo Makito was a guest of Jumeirah Bali.
In the know
Jumeirah Bali is about an hour by car from Denpasar airport; transfers available. The Jumeirah website offers advance purchase rates with 20 per cent off bookings made at least 30 days ahead; breakfast included. Also available are flexible rates for stays of four nights or more. Conditions apply to both deals. Enter desired dates for seasonal tariffs. Villa rates in June, for example, from $1029, weeknights. Qantas frequent flyers can also access special offers via the airline site.
