Nirjhara Bali
This new resort is a short distance from Denpasar yet surrounded by peaceful rice paddies and jungle.
Bali has long been known for its warm and friendly welcome, but smiles became a scarce commodity for many residents during the past 2½ years. Luxury eco-resort Nirjhara, in Bali’s relatively untouched Tabanan Regency, an hour west of Denpasar, had only just opened when travel bans were imposed.
General manager Alejandro Rueda recalls how difficult it was when the property had to shut up shop in March 2020, but he was able to keep staff on the payroll. “It kept people working, gave locals a place to come, and created great goodwill in the community,” the Mexican native says. “While other resorts that shut down are now struggling to recruit staff, we have fully trained, happy people working with us and we’ve been able to restart with little disruption.”
READ MORE:Covid’s impact on Bali | Bali reopens to the world | My Covid ordeal in Jakarta | Threat of foot and mouth disease | Warning to Bali travellers
Nestled among rice terraces and jungle, Nirjhara – Sanskrit for waterfall – cascades down to an infinity pool that overlooks its namesake. There’s a holistic sense of place, reflecting French co-founders Dimitri Tran and Adrien Portier’s vision of “international Indonesian” that blends a contemporary look with the surrounding landscape and Indonesian craftsmanship. The 25 elegant pavilions, villas and suites are appointed in artisan-made Indonesian fabrics, furnishings and materials, including timber, coconut fibre and volcanic stone, traditional carvings and contemporary Indonesian art.
Arriving at 1am after a crowded red-eye, I’m greeted by a necklace of lanterns threading a shimmering bamboo grove, lighting the way to an open reception pavilion where I’m handed a refreshing sweet rosella cordial and a choice of fragrances for the amenities in my suite. There’s Unwind (a soothing blend of sandalwood, sage, chamomile and local spices), Invigorate (a peppy mix of lavender, geranium, ginger, peppermint and island spice) or Nirjhara’s signature scent (featuring patchouli, ylang ylang and lovepotion). I’m ferried to one of seven canopy suites, one-bedroom treehouses appointed in reclaimed teak that overlook Tabanan’s UNESCO-listed rice paddies and Mount Agung.
The next morning I’m hoping to take advantage of the rooftop deck with its lounger and open-air tub, but with unseasonably heavy rain I must have brought from home, I opt for a treatment at The Retreat, Nirjhara’s spa, set in the same complex as the gym and sauna. It offers Balinese massages, facials, reiki and reflexology, as well as two-hour blessings, incorporating healing and beauty treatments. My “invigorating and tension-releasing” Sacred Man Shiva Energy Blessing, inspired by Balinese rituals and including deep tissue massage, acupressure facial and coffee body scrub, dispels any lingering jet lag. It’s bliss.
Nirjhara’s accommodation inventory also includes one and two-bedroom villas with spacious living areas, reading nooks overlooking the gardens, decks with private plunge pools or outdoor baths, expansive ensuites and glorious open-air showers. Top of the range is the two-storey Residence, which sleeps up to six and has a huge living and dining area, two enormous bedrooms with walk-in wardrobes, and a deck with an infinity pool spilling into the jungle below.
Tabanan is Bali’s largest rice-producing region, and only eco-friendly developments are permitted. Nijhara embodies this “responsible luxury” with solar water heaters, saltwater pools to avoid contaminating the adjoining canal, no plastics, and electric buggies to transport guests. Metal and glass bottles are replenished daily with reverse-osmosis filtered water, meaning the water is the same as that out of the tap, which unusually for Bali is safe to drink. Herbs and vegetables are grown on site, and more than 97 per cent of ingredients are sourced from local organic farms or on Java and Lombok.
Activities and bespoke experiences include movies in the nine-seat cinema, riverside yoga classes, bonfire nights, traditional ceramics classes, and mixology workshops featuring arak rice-wine cocktails. There’s a large cellar dominated by Australian and New Zealand wines, with a smattering of South American, South African, US and French drops, although be prepared to pay a premium given high alcohol taxes.
While the surrounding village has some great street-food options, it doesn’t have any fine dining (although staff will recommend their favourites). An alternative is to take the 20-minute drive to the tourist town of Canggu. Or just stay put. Nirjhara’s restaurant, Ambu, has a diverse menu, split between breakfast and all-day dining, with Western staples such as eggs, burritos and waffles for breakfast, and pasta, pizza, steak and burgers during the day. Chef Andrew Fahludza’s modern Indonesian dishes are outstanding, especially the Nusantara breakfast board featuring a battered egg balado smothered in spicy sambal, corn fritters, smoky nasi goreng, crispy deep-fried spinach leaf drizzled with peanut sauce, and sweet and creamy black rice congee topped with tapioca pearls. In addition to in-villa dining, Alejandro and Andrew can create a personalised dinner experience paired with wine and in a choice of intimate settings, such as a secluded flower-garlanded gazebo overlooking the waterfall.
Feeling energetic? Go cycling through the rice paddies, take a sunrise surf lesson or a sunset horseride along the black-sand beach. The Tanah Lot water temple, one of Bali’s six most sacred, is nearby. To really get away from it all, charter Vela, the company’s phinisi, to cruise Indonesia’s eastern islands. Sports fishing, jetskiing, snorkelling and scuba diving as well as on-board spa treatments, cocktails and bespoke dining are all part of the experience.
But for all of Nirjhara’s relaxed charm, it’s the friendly people who make it special. On my last day, Alejandro takes me on a signature outing. After an hour’s drive north and a trek into a lush valley, we finally come upon the breathtaking Nungnung waterfall. It feels magical, and even more so when Alejandro opens a bottle of wine and serves an al fresco lunch. There’s just enough time to head back for a final massage before jumping on another red-eye home. I could have stayed a little longer, if not forever, and I’ve been smiling ever since.
In the know
Nirjhara has canopy suites from about $424 a night; river pavilions from $459, $565 with pool; two-bedroom villas from $723. Food and beverages are not included but scheduled activities and airport transfers are. There is some accessibility for mobility-impaired guests, including buggy transport to accessible villas.
Sunil Badami was a guest of Nirjhara.