A tomato salad to make the most of the late-summer bounty
When you have something this good, it almost seems a shame to cook it, which makes this recipe ideal for those days when it is too hot to even light the barbecue.
A favourite memory takes me back to Spain’s Basque country, where the garden of Etxebarri is nestled among rolling hills and lush greenery. In this idyllic setting, chef Victor Arguinzoniz and his family live a life deeply connected to the region and the land.
Victor’s father, Angel, a man with weathered hands and a heart full of love for his garden, cultivated a paradise of vibrant vegetables that flourished in the rich soil of the Basque mountains. Among the many treasures of their garden, from teardrop peas to radiant peppers, sweet onions and buttery lettuces, the tomatoes were a standout. Kissed by the sun and nurtured by Angel, they were a delight to behold, their luscious skins glistening in the sunlight, promising a burst of flavour with every bite.
The simple tomato salad became a summer ritual in their household. One warm summer evening when the family gathered around a rustic wooden table in their backyard, Victor emerged with a basket full of plump, ripe tomatoes. He sliced them open, revealing the juicy, deep red jewel-like flesh within. A pinch of sea salt, some thin slices of onion, a little vinegar and golden Arbequina olive oil was drizzled over the tomatoes. The aroma of fresh basil, grown just a few steps away, wafted through the air, and a few torn leaves completed the harmony of flavours. As we sat down to enjoy the fruits of Angel’s labour, we were transported
The first bite was a revelation – the initial burst of sweetness was quickly followed by a gentle acidity that tingled the sides of the tongue; the basil added a fresh herbaceous note, and the olive oil created a silky texture that danced on our taste buds. As the sun set behind the Basque mountains, casting a warm glow over the village, we felt like kings feasting on the treasures of the land.
While tomatoes are available all year round in Australia, late summer is when they are at their peak. Look for tomatoes that have been allowed to fully ripen on the vine under the warm embrace of the sun; a transformative process that intensifies their sweetness, acidity and umami. When you eat a perfectly ripe tomato, your taste buds are treated to a symphony with the luscious juice and seeds bursting forth with each bite. When you have something that good, it almost seems a shame to cook it, which makes this recipe ideal for those days when it is too hot to even light the barbecue. You can also try my no-cook tomato soup for a different refreshing option.
Summer tomato salad
Ingredients
- 1kg vine-ripened tomatoes such as Sugar Plum, San Marzano, Mortgage Lifter, Brandywine or Black Krim
- 100g caperberries
- 1 shallot or salad onion, peeled
- 5g sea salt
- 120ml fruity olive oil
- 50ml sherry vinegar
- Handful fresh basil leaves
Method
- Slice the shallot into fine rings and cover with ice-water.
- Leave for at least five minutes and drain before use. Wash your tomatoes and cut them into bite-sized pieces, slicing the larger ones and halving smaller ones and so on as you like it.
- Place on a large plate and season evenly with sea salt, crushing the flakes between your thumb and forefinger. Adorn the tomatoes with the caperberries and the shallot rings.
- Dress the salad first with the vinegar, dispersing evenly across the tomatoes.
- Repeat with the olive oil, drizzling evenly over the tomatoes. Serve immediately, tearing over fresh basil to finish.
Serves 3-4