Skip this ‘forlorn’ Blue Mountains town? You’ll be missing out

Once upon a time, in the dawn of Australian tourism during the early 20th century, the Blue Mountains hub of Katoomba was the cutting edge of style, a place where Sydney socialites came to “take the air” and party in grand hotels with spectacular vistas of the vast Jamison Valley.

During the 1920s and ’30s, it was known as the honeymoon capital of Australia; while generations of Sydney families have fond memories of weekends admiring the famous Three Sisters or riding the Scenic Railway.

Froma Court, which sits behind the Paragon.Credit: Rhett Wyman

But as noted by this masthead on Saturday, poor old Katoomba has seen better days. Many of its once-glorious heritage buildings, including the ornate Paragon Cafe, are in a shocking state of decay – boarded up, scarred by graffiti, uninhabitable. Blue Mountains residents, myself included, are invariably appalled by the neglect, frustrated by the lack of action and accountability as local council, Heritage NSW and absentee slum landlords play the blame game for the sorry state of affairs.

But to suggest Katoomba be avoided by the three million tourists who visit the region each year or bypassed en route to the sights of Echo Point does the town a major disservice.

For behind the grunge and “to lease” signs lies a quirky, eclectic soul, with a vibrancy and funkiness reminiscent of inner-Sydney suburbs like Newtown or Enmore. From thrift stores to art galleries, cafes to bookshops, there’s no better place to potter and poke around than K-Town, especially if the weather is inclement (as it so often is!)

The magnificent Carrington Hotel.Credit: Destination NSW

And for every neglected building, many more have been lovingly restored by business owners passionate about the region’s heritage. Overseeing the town behind an imposing circular driveway is the magnificent circa-1883 Carrington Hotel, its stained-glass windows and Tiffany dome a wonder to behold; while across the road, the dress circle of the art deco Savoy Theatre now houses the retro-fitted Avalon Restaurant, replete with Barbie dolls in birdcages and creepy boa-wearing mannequins.

A few steps down Katoomba Street leads to an old bank building, now the excellent Tempus restaurant; while beyond the eye-catching street art of Beverly Place is Bowery, a chic cocktail bar and restaurant within the walls of an old Federation-Romanesque church.

Tempus restaurant.Credit: Jennifer Soo

You won’t go hungry on your stroll down the roller coaster hill of Katoomba Street, with cheap Asian eats galore including Nepalese momos, an excellent pho restaurant, and fab Korean meals for less than 20 bucks.

There are also several excellent bakeries – join the queues for sublime pastries at Hominy or the delectable Black Cockatoo. Not to mention the hobbit-like Yellow Deli, always packed despite its association with the nefarious Twelve Tribes cult…

Katoomba has a retro vibe.Credit: Destination NSW

Unlike the chi-chi boutiques of neighbouring Leura, Katoomba’s shopping scene is decidedly retro. Thrift shopping here is an art, while there are at least half a dozen vintage clothing stores. Browse for antiques at the Katoomba Vintage Emporium or the dungeon-like Antique Centre on Bathurst Street; or if your interests lean towards taxidermy, skulls and religious relics, head upstairs to the aptly named Odd Mountain.

Pop down Ha’penny Lane to discover the Little Lost Bookshop, a bibliophile’s delight and home to live music, poetry readings and musings. And while you’re in the cultural mood, hit up one of Katoomba’s many art galleries, including Lost Bear Gallery, One88 and Rex Livingstone Art, as well as the excellent Blue Mountains Cultural Centre and City Art Gallery, above Coles behind the main drag.

There’s also plenty to love beyond Katoomba; the Insta-worthy autumn hues of Blackheath, or the cherry trees of Leura. And let’s not forget the oldest town in the Blue Mountains, sleepy Mount Victoria, where two magnificent heritage hotels – the former Fairfax manor house that’s now the social enterprise Hotel Etico and the gloriously flamboyant Victoria and Albert Guesthouse – are a testament to sympathetic, thorough restoration.

With the criminal neglect of the Katoomba streetscape now under scrutiny, change is hopefully afoot for this historic treasure. The potential is certainly there – now what is required is investment, co-operation and urgent action. Death by heritage should never be an option.

Julie Miller is a travel writer and Blue Mountains local.