I tried to downgrade from Qantas premium to economy and was rebuffed

Empty feeling

I convinced myself to book a Qantas premium economy seat as a treat on my last visit to the US in 2017 (Traveller, February 12). The experience was underwhelming and frustrating on several levels, but particularly so when I realised I couldn’t lift the fixed armrest between the seats to avail myself of the extra room in the adjacent vacant seat.

The fixed armrests in Qantas premium economy frustrated one Traveller reader.

The flight was fairly empty, so I tried to move to an empty row of four seats in economy but was stopped and told I couldn’t change classes and that the empty economy rows were there for economy passengers to enjoy the extra room. I appreciated that, but the rows were empty. I spent the flight trying to sleep in an upright seat with only slightly more recline than economy, while empty rows beckoned. It was aggravating, to say the least. Never again.
Jennifer Ingall, Narooma, NSW

Letter of the week: Southern comforts

Traditional China – fishermen on the Li River.Credit: iStock

Thanks for the wonderful China story by Brian Johnston (Traveller, January 31). Having spent a brief time in the south of China just before Christmas, we agree – the Li River scenery is spectacular. We also enjoyed the friendly people (most tourists were local), quality hotels that were great value (but good quaint hotels around too) and food that was delicious (from Guilin noodles to bamboo chicken). We kept being surprised by the scale of everything, with 50 boats at the Li River dock and 700 performers at an outdoor show. Communication was easy, as our drivers used language translating devices or apps and getting online wasn’t an issue for us with Telstra roaming and an eSim both functional. Cash was the norm, which was fortunate as Alipay is difficult to get without a local bank account. A few final observations: fast trains are smooth, but there are lots of tunnels; solar panels are there in an abundance, as are electric vehicles; and the cities were modern, clean and tidy. We loved it and can’t wait to return.
Kevin Lodge, Waterloo, NSW

Chinese idyll

I loved Brian Johnston’s China story. I first visited China in 1978 after the Cultural Revolution. I returned several times, visiting the usual tourist destinations. One part of the country Brian didn’t mention was Hainan Island, with its city Sanya, a popular resort destination among Russians and honeymooning Chinese escaping the chill of the north. Hainan in the Qin and Tang dynasties was a place of exile. Now it is an island of military bases, rainforest, ethnic minorities (Li and Miao people) and golf courses. I studied Chinese there and enjoyed student life, practising Chinese and English and watching Chinese opera in the streets of Haikou, the island’s main city.
Michael Copping, Oatley, NSW

Make America a date again

In response to Lee Tulloch’s column (Traveller, January 28), my wife and I have been travelling overseas on and off since 1975. In that time we have visited over 60 countries and spent a lot of time in the US, too. I suggest to Lee that many countries are not the same, particularly France, Spain and the US. Paris is not France, Barcelona is not Spain and the recent elections in the US prove that Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York are not America. They’re just a small part of a beautiful country. We have lots of friends in the US who love their country and pray that the current president will fix a lot of the damage done by previous governments. I suggest to Lee that, rather than the president putting tourists off, the American dollar versus the Australian dollar imbalance is by far the biggest drawback. Please don’t let your political bias turn tourists off.
Barry Scott, Hope Island, Qld

Parting ways

Thank you, Lee Tulloch, for your column on travel to the US. I grew up there, near New York City, and I’ve spent most of my adult life in Australia. During the time my mother was alive, my wife and I visited the US frequently. Since 1999, these visits have been far less frequent. I have no desire to visit the US, definitely not until the grown-ups are back in charge (and even then, I’d be reluctant). One part of me says, “I don’t know the US any more”, while the other part of me says, “actually, I know the US too well, and don’t like what I see.″⁣
Bob Faser, Claremont, Tas

Core findings

Before Jane Cornwell jumps onto her next long-haul flight and does her downward-dog in the toilet corridors (Traveller, January 16), she should read Traveller’s article about the “The five worst types of air passenger, according to a flight attendant”. Passengers practising in-flight yoga are top of the list.
Andrew Verlei, Patterson Lakes, Vic

Driven spare

We experienced the exact treatment Michael Gebicki described in his column about renting cars in Europe (Traveller, February 11). We arrived late into Corfu in August last year and dragged our bags a kilometre to the cheaper car-rental place, only to be told they needed to see the issuing date of my husband’s Victorian driver’s licence. Despite explaining the licence was valid for 10 years, the woman behind the counter insisted, without seeing the date, that we weren’t going anywhere. After an hour of pleading and even tears, we gave up and headed back into the airport, where another car-rental place agreed to rent us a car without mentioning the issue date. Whilst it’s true, you can pay Vic Roads for a full driving report, as per Michael’s article, I’d advise downloading the electronic version of your licence on the Vic Service app, where the date is clearly displayed.
Polly Caldow, Carlton North, Vic

Conditions apply

Further to Michael Gebicki’s column on European car hire, drivers hiring cars in Italy by law must now hold an International Driver’s Licence – present it, or no hire. Over decades of travel I have never been asked for this document – it was tempting to not bother for a recent trip until a fortunate read of my hire booking conditions. Sure enough, collecting our car in Milan, I was asked for it, and my wife who didn’t have one was not permitted to be added as a driver. Worse still for another customer, who despite a reservation was turned away, their holiday plans in disarray.
Simon Davis, Coburg, Vic

Tip of the week: Taiwan ease

Pagodas in Taiwan.Credit: iStock

From its historical heritage to beautiful temples, there is a lot to see and do in under-visited Taiwan. The drive from Taipei to Sun Moon Lake has lovely scenery, with the lake offering great walking trails, boating and a cable car from which you can view all the surrounding sights. The Taiwanese people are all very welcoming, with one man even offering to take us to the ice-cream shop we couldn’t locate. The local food is fresh and tasty, especially the Taiwanese noodles, and you can relax in the natural hot springs as you take in the views of amazing temples.
Maxine Ryan, Erskineville, NSW

Right on queue

As older Australians departing Manila after a wonderful holiday, we were delighted to see separate queues at the airport to make our exit a breeze. At immigration, we spotted a “PWD” (people with disabilities) sign, which also allows persons aged over 60 to skip the long queue. In case you’re unsure, there are plenty of friendly staff to direct you.
Roger Farrer, Hampton, Vic

Peso yourself

In response to Richard Rawling’s letter on money in Argentina (Traveller Letters, February 1) cash is often the only option, especially outside Buenos Aires. The best value and safest way to get cash is to send yourself ARS (Argentine pesos) via Western Union and collect it from there. Only get as much as you really think you’ll need and spend it all before you leave the country. At best, you’ll get one third of the value exchanging it in another country, if they’ll change it at all.
Stephen Power, Sutherland, NSW

Royal treatment

Having recently stayed at Atlantis The Royal in Dubai (Traveller, January 30 ), albeit in a much cheaper room than the one in your Traveller 10 feature on the world’s priciest hotels, I can confirm it is a truly amazing and unique hotel, especially the rooftop pool club, Cloud 22. But if you’re a billionaire looking to save a few bucks and want to stay in the planet’s best room it’s hard to beat the world’s first underwater residence, The Muraka in the Maldives. It is now a comparative bargain at $10,000 a night and, as an added bonus, you could also dine nearby at the world’s first underwater restaurant – Ithaa, designed by a New Zealander, and despite many subsequent imitators, still the best.
Chris Roylance, Paddington, Qld

Take a leaf

Planning a trip across North America, I researched alternate options to air travel. A little known and amazing journey, as it turned out, was boarding the Maple Leaf train in Toronto at breakfast time and arriving into the heart of New York in time for dinner. The views from the train were beautiful, from crossing the border at Niagara Falls, travelling through Amish countryside, passing through quaint little towns. The train seats were like business seats, we could walk and stretch, and we packed a picnic. And the cost of the ticket was less than $200.
Mary-Lynn Ladbrooke, Russell Lea, NSW

One Flix and you’re gone

As your reader noted, FlixBus and their train services are a good and well-priced way to get around Europe (Traveller Letters, February 8). His advice in getting a taxi or Uber to the stop is a good one as their stops, and other similar bus lines, may not be in the main bus and train areas and can take some finding. Bologna was good, as Flix uses the covered depot across the road from the station and the electronic board is well updated, but at Verona, they are down a side street and no shelter is provided. At Padua, you get dropped about two blocks from the station and the bus driver’s vague pointing was... vague. In Antwerp, they stop a suburb away from the centre, but it is beside a tram line to the main station. In Bruges, it is on the other side of the main area but close by. So give yourself time to know exactly where the stops are and keep an eye out for the weather. Apart from that, it’s a good service. And you get to see places most tourists do not.
Tony Sullivan, Adamstown Heights, NSW

The Letter of the Week writer wins three Hardie Grant travel books. See hardiegrant.com

The Tip of the Week writer wins a set of three Lonely Planet travel books. See shop.lonelyplanet.com