Opinion
Your questions: How should I spend three weeks in Europe?
Michael Gebicki is Traveller’s expert Tripologist. Each week he tackles the thorny issues in travel as well as answering your questions. Got a question for the Tripologist? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au
Michael Gebicki
The TripologistMy mum and I are vision-impaired, and after a trip to Germany, Austria and Italy’s Ferrara last year, we would love to do another Europe trip in September. We are thinking of returning to Italy, and we wondered about Naples or southern Italy, otherwise Croatia/Adriatic coast or Belgium. What can you suggest for a three-week stay, potentially staying in three different locations?
H. Schedlich, Moonee Ponds, Vic
The “white city” of Ostuni in Puglia, Italy.Credit: Getty Images
The cities of Ghent and Bruges in Belgium are world-class wonders, and you also have easy access to Amsterdam. Most travellers go to Croatia and the Adriatic for the beaches but since you’ve fallen under the spell of Italy, why not indulge yourselves?
Appealing as it is, Ferrara and the rest of Emilia Romagna is only one part of the Italian mosaic. Southern Italy might as well be another country. You could start in Rome and take the fast train to Naples and spend at least five days there, visiting the archaeological museum, the churches, and don’t miss San Gennaro, Pompeii, taking the ferry to Capri and Ischia and sampling pizza in the city that invented it. Also enjoy sfogliatella pastries and seafood dishes at the outdoor restaurants along Vico Lungo del Gelso. I’ve stayed at Foro Carolino right on Piazza Dante and it’s a great choice.
Next, take the train to Ostuni, in Puglia. Capping a hilltop above gnarled olive trees on the plain below, Ostuni is the largest of the so-called “white cities” of the Itria Valley, its knotted alleyways curling beneath wrought-iron balconies. From here you can take guided tours to experience Alberobello and the other white cities of the Valle d’Itria, the city of Lecce and sample the distinct cuisine of this charismatic corner of Italy.
Spend about five nights then take the bus to Bari Airport and fly to Catania in Sicily, Ryanair has daily non-stop flights. Take a bus or taxi south to Ortigia, the island at the southern end of Syracuse. Make it your base for the rest of the time you have available. From here you can make day trips to visit Noto, Ragusa, Modica and Taormina. Allow yourself time to relax in Ortigia, the Piazza del Duomo is one of the finest squares in all of Italy, ringed by baroque facades cast from the same bleached limestone. It feels like an opera set, best seen from Bar Condorelli, source of Italy’s famous Condorelli torrone, but you’re really here for minne di Sant’Agata, ricotta-filled pastries encased in marzipan and topped with a cherry.
We will be in South Africa next year and would like to do a road trip in another country afterwards. Can you suggest somewhere that’s safe and well suited to a family trip? We previously did something similar in Namibia and it was fantastic.
S. Bolitho, Brunswick, Vic
Elephants in Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.Credit: Getty Images
Botswana would be my No.1 choice, and a camping road trip is a popular, rewarding way to experience the wilderness and wildlife of this incredible southern African country. It is also safe, provided you follow a few basic rules. Bear in mind that most campsites in Botswana’s national parks and reserves are unfenced, allowing wildlife to wander through. Watch out for baboons – they’re criminals. This style of trip is also cost-effective compared to a stay in Botswana’s wilderness lodges, where even a basic tented room starts at around $US1000 a night for two.
Several operators have fully equipped rentals which set you up with a four-wheel drive vehicle, all camping gear, long-range tanks, recovery gear and a GPS device with the necessary software. Some offer a satellite phone for emergencies, and that’s well worth the cost. Camping safaris require diligent planning, including reserving camping spots well in advance, especially for travels during the dry season (July to October).
The prime parks and reserves are Chobe National Park, renowned for its elephants; the Moremi Game Reserve in the amazing Okavango Delta; the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and the Makgadikgadi Pans. Botswana Footprints and Drive Botswana are local operators that can set you up with everything you need. If you’d rather someone else did the booking, driving, setting up of tents and cooking, several operators offer guided camping safaris including Wild Africa Safaris.
At the end of a Hurtigruten Coastal Express cruise along Norway’s coast, my husband, 85-year-old mother-in-law and I have five nights in Kirkenes to explore. We have a hire car and would love to explore some of Finland and Sweden but are overwhelmed for choice. Any suggestions for an itinerary?
A. Rowe, North Balgowlah, NSW
Cruising with Hurtigruten in Norway.
Using Kirkenes as your base, spend your first day exploring the town, strolling around the most northerly harbour on Europe’s mainland and perhaps enjoying a dinner of king crab, fish soup or another of the local seafood specialties.
Depending on the weather, over the following days take a scenic drive along the E75 which follows the coastline along the southern edge of Varanger National Park as far as Vardo, the easternmost town in Norway, famous for the Steilneset Memorial, which commemorates those executed during witch trials in the 17th century. A short drive east from Kirkenes along the E105 takes you to the Russian border, but it’s crucial that you don’t stray from Norwegian territory. The region is known for its king crab fishing, and a half-day fishing trip includes a feast of freshly prepared crab. South of Kirkenes, the Norwegian territory narrows to a finger separating Finland from Russia.
Deep in this pocket, Pasvik National Park is a mosaic of pine forests, lakes and marshland and home to Norway’s only taiga forest, as well as brown bears. Trails are marked but caution is required – it’s easy to lose your bearings and there are no landmarks to guide you.
You could easily drive into Finland, but Sweden is too far for a day trip. You’re driving in a remote area so fill up whenever possible and watch out for road hazards which include moose and reindeer, be especially careful if you’re driving early in the morning or at dusk.
After a holiday in South Africa in July, my family fly from Cape Town to Johannesburg, arriving at 11am, then on to Sydney at 6.40pm. I feel there’s a good opportunity to explore the city from noon to 4pm, provided we are on time. Do you have any suggestions?
D. Clack, Terrigal, NSW
You could squeeze in a half-day tour of Soweto. Highlights include the Mandela House and Vilakazi Street, one of the most historically significant streets in South Africa, and perhaps the only street in the world where two Nobel Peace Prize winners (Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu) once lived. Also, the nearby Hector Pieterson Memorial, which commemorates the 1976 student uprising against the use of Afrikaans in schools, a pivotal moment in the anti-apartheid struggle. See Mo Afrika Tours for more information.
Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances
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