With serenity and comforts aplenty, this restored retreat is superb

The lodge

Lumiere Lodge, West Hobart

Street front for this Victorian-era house.

Check-in

Hobart is a hill-hugging town, houses stuck to the slopes and looked over by that big sentinel, kunanyi/Mount Wellington that so dominates the landscape. Settle in to West Hobart (yes, some call it WeHo, sorry West Hollywood, you’ve been upstaged) and you’re on one of those smaller hills, just a little way from the city centre at Lumiere Lodge, a plush, three-bedroom Victorian-era house renovated and restored to luxury level by its enthusiastic owners. It’s a quiet street, timber verandah facing it, gardens off to the side, and a perch of an old church pew by the front door. Crack the key from the lock box and you’re in, space and comfort unfolding down the hallway.

The look

One of three lounge areas.

Lumiere is National Trust Classified, and its owners have given due regard to that status, particularly in the restoration of the exterior and facade. Styling inside goes stick to the theme with antique furniture and portraits in the smaller lounge rooms, up in the attic, and in one of the bathrooms with its clawfoot bath. It all becomes seriously smart and modern though in the kitchen/dining area and main bedroom and its ensuite.

The room

Inside the main bedroom.

There are three bedrooms and as many bathrooms, but the main bedroom and its vast ensuite bathroom with a huge walk-in shower is clearly the winner. It also has a walk-in wardrobe with enough space to hang the outfits for an acting troupe in a medium-sized play.

There’s an attic and bathroom up some steep and narrow stairs that serves as the third bedroom if needed. The second bedroom is at the front of the house with another bathroom in the room next to it. Cross the hall and there are two smaller lounges for drinks or relaxed reading.

The kitchen area is extraordinary – big window to the gardens and doors to open out on the courtyard, island bench, pod coffee machine, double ovens and french-door refrigerator. Hill Street grocers are just up the road, but tempting as it might be to eat in, it’s Hobart’s eating out that we’re here to taste.

Out + about

Some accommodation is simply shelter – lodgings while you set about and do other things, but with its courtyard garden and various lounges, this is a place to stay and enjoy. Pour yourself a complimentary cocktail with a big sphere of ice from the freezer, or take a sip of Tasmanian whiskey. If you want to wander, the city centre is a 15-minute walk – excellent Farm Gate market on Sundays – and the waterfront another 10 or so minutes past that, with its buzzing Salamanca Markets on Saturdays.

Food + drink

The kitchen, opening to the courtyard at right.

Breakfast supplies are ample – fresh bread and spreads, eggs and bacon, various fresh juices and even bake-your-own croissants (with instructions) from Pigeon Whole bakers. Should you wish, the owners will organise caterers to cook onsite, or if you want to use the smart kitchen and need quality supplies, there’s a good butcher and Hill Street Grocers a few minutes’ walk up the road. Eating out, you’re spoilt for choice in Hobart. Nearby in West Hobart’s Elizabeth Street is the buzzing Bar Wa Izakaya, Templo is on this side of the CBD and down by the waterfront (a 10-minute drive) you’ll find stars like Maria, Aloft and Peppina.

The verdict

A luxurious Hobart hangout, near enough to the centre and waterfront for all those attractions, but far enough afield to enjoy the serenity of suburbia.

The essentials

From $650 for two people, $1050 for six people, per night, plus cleaning and service fees. West Hobart, Tasmania. See lumierelodge.com.au and for bookings, see airbnb.com.au

Our rating out of five

★★★★

Highlight

The connection of courtyard and kitchen is brilliant – big glass windows and doors merging outdoors and in.

Lowlight

You can feel the owners’ love and admire the detail, but there’s a line where curios become clutter; some of the dried floral arrangements simply get in the road.

The writer was a guest of Lumiere Lodge.

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