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Think cruising is not for you? This ship will change your mind

By Trudi Jenkins
This article is part of Traveller’s guide to The Ends of the Earth.See all stories.

Silver Ray

  • Built 2023
  • The cruise Lisbon to Rome (12 days)
  • Passengers 728
  • Crew 544
  • Passenger decks Nine
  • Length 244m
Silver Ray is the newest ship from Silversea and is almost identical to Silver Nova.

Silver Ray is the newest ship from Silversea and is almost identical to Silver Nova.

The ship

The difference is clear, literally. Silversea’s 12th ship and its second Nova Class (following Silver Nova last year), Silver Ray has an abundance of exterior glass – 4000 square metres, in fact. Combined with its asymmetric design, which places the pool and lifts to one side, it feels light, spacious and seamlessly connected to either the ocean or the port you’re visiting.

The sense of openness is highlighted on decks 10 and 11, where you’ll find the Marquee restaurant, Dusk Bar and masses of comfy alfresco seating – perfect for a sunny Mediterranean voyage in June (especially coming from an Australian winter).

Dusk Bar is alfresco and perfect for sailaway at sunset.

Dusk Bar is alfresco and perfect for sailaway at sunset.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

Boarding

We’ve selected a late-afternoon boarding time after making the most of a pre-cruise sojourn in Lisbon. We’re met at the cruise terminal by one of several porters, having arrived from our hotel via Uber (thereby avoiding the extortionate charge paid a few days earlier, when jet-lag fog meant we forgot to confirm the cost upfront with an enterprising taxi driver). Our bags are taken up to the arrivals hall; there are no queues, and we breeze through security and check-in. Key/identity cards issued, we’re quickly settled in our suite, where a bottle of chilled champagne awaits.

The design

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The pool deck with its cabanas and central bar.

The pool deck with its cabanas and central bar.

An innovative horizontal design means the all-balcony suites are grouped together on four decks (6 to 9) from forward to aft, with upper decks (and higher ceilings) reserved for public spaces. So the corridors are very long but good for getting your steps up after overindulging (which you will). Silversea’s Italian heritage shows in a neutral colour palette, and there’s a refreshing lack of cruise-ship bling, so the ship feels more like a luxe resort. Sustainability is a focus; Silver Ray’s godmother is ocean scientist Dr Maria Josefina Olascoaga. A redesigned hull minimises fuel consumption, the ship uses LNG to reduce carbon emissions and waste is converted to thermal energy.

The spaces

Silver Ray’s asymmetric design immerses you in the ports you visit.

Silver Ray’s asymmetric design immerses you in the ports you visit.

Even on a 12-day cruise, we don’t manage to frequent every public space (there are 20). With port stops almost every day, we’re keen to explore ashore. During sea days, we gravitate to the pool deck, with its glam central bar, copious sun loungers and Italian-made towels. (Given its port-side setting, overlooking the cities where we dock, we’re also occasionally tempted to stay put on shore days, too.) Venues maximised by other passengers on our voyage include the Observation Lounge, the Panorama Lounge, the hidden-away library, and the Shelter, Silver Note and Dolce Vita bars.

The stateroom

The Medallion Suite has a separate bedroom and lounge area.

The Medallion Suite has a separate bedroom and lounge area.

Our 49-square-metre Medallion Suite has a bedroom, lounge area, and huge bathroom with double sink, bath and shower, as well as a veranda with sun lounger, table and chairs. The luxe amenities evoke the most thoughtful five-star hotel, from the bathrobe, slippers and numerous wooden hangers in the walk-in wardrobe to the dressing table with LED mirror and the bar area with espresso machine and fridge. There is no plastic in the room; instead, you’ll find eau de nil drink bottles and recyclable/recycled packaging for the bath products. Your daily chronicle of activities appears on your smart TV or Lenovo pad (like an iPad) to save paper and printing. Great initiatives, even if it means endlessly patient staff having to deal with non-tech-savvy guests.

The food

Regional dining at SALT Kitchen.

Regional dining at SALT Kitchen.

We eat at SALT Kitchen most evenings, seduced by its hyper-local focus. There are dishes that change daily depending on the destination, as well as a regional menu that stays in place for the voyage. From grilled sardines in Lisbon to saltimbocca in Livorno, it’s a liberating change from the usual cruise-ship restaurant trifecta of steak, Italian or pan-Asian. The Chef’s Table dinner at SALT Lab is also impressive, with its 11-course tasting menu and matching wines. Other highlights among the nine dining venues are the open-air Marquee restaurant with its excellent Spaccanapoli pizzas and the Arts Cafe, which serves well-made Illy coffee (essential for takeaway when visiting France) and a good selection of pastries, sandwiches and cakes.

Wellness

The Roman-inspired Otium Spa is focused on indulgence – hence the chilled champagne in the relaxation area. There are eight treatment rooms (I gift my frozen shoulder both a superlative massage and an acupuncture session with a Japanese therapist); a sauna, steam room and indoor infinity-edge pool with views; as well as a generous gym that is surprisingly busy whenever we pass by.

Entertainment

I’m not a massive fan of cruise ship shows, but the saxophonist who plays at Dusk Bar is very good, and can we include shopping as entertainment? Silver Ray has a boutique that stocks, among other things, Fragonard French soaps, Australian clothing brand Alemais and the Assouline range of coffee-table travel books. Otherwise, there is a seemingly endless number of daily activities, from lectures, table tennis and SALT Lab cooking classes to bingo, bridge and blackjack. I content myself extremely happily with book-reading and movie-watching in our suite.

The crew

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Every suite on Silver Ray has its own butler. Ours, the charming Pankaj, is woefully underutilised as we’re usually out and about, but does bring tea, coffee and croissants each morning, silently placing the tray in the lounge area so as to not disturb our slumber. He also notices what wine we like and replenishes our fridge with local varieties he wants us to try, as well as setting our veranda table meticulously when we order room service. Elsewhere, the crew are all unfailingly pleasant, knowledgeable and helpful – including the very likeable cruise director, Rico du Breil.

The verdict

A luxurious ship that immerses you in the destination through its open, contemporary design and SALT food program. A smart choice for discerning types who think they mightn’t enjoy cruising.

The details

Port-to-port all-inclusive fares for an 11-night Mediterranean voyage on Silver Ray departing Lisbon on June 25, 2025, start from $12,800 per person. These rates are available until 31 October 2024. See silversea.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★★

Swell

The saxophonist playing at alfresco Dusk Bar as you sail away from port at sunset, pisco sour in hand.

Not so swell

The two cabanas built over the pool – they block the view for others, and you feel awkward sitting there.

The writer was a guest of Silversea Cruises.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/traveller/reviews-and-advice/think-cruising-is-not-for-you-this-ship-will-change-your-mind-20240814-p5k2gk.html